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Routes in Tom's Thumb
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Deep Freeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Garbonzo Bean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hard Drivin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hot Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kreuser's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sacred Datura Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Settlement, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Succubus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Treiber's Deception T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Corner T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dick Hart, Bill McMorris (1948) |
| Page Views: | 2,094 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Frankel on Dec 31, 2011 |
| Admins: | Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland |
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Access Issue: Access:
Details
For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016
Details
The temporary closure at Tom’s Thumb has been re-opened as the falcons have fully fledged and are no longer in the area. This year there were 5 beautiful off spring! Thank you so much for respecting the temporary closure, your commitment to the Preserve and it's wildlife is appreciated.
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Description
Good beginner's lead route to the top of the Thumb. This was the original route way back in 1948! Originally rated Fourth class, but it's really a low 5th class climb. Actually, the first pitch is fourth class, but the 2nd pitch is fifth class.
Pitch 1: Follow fourth class easy scramble from left to right up a ramp. Continue up crack to tree to belay from.
Pitch 2: Traverse left towards another tree and across a low angle sloped face to a crack system on the left, then up a wide dual crack system to an overhang. Traverse right under the overhang across another low angle sloped face and then up a wide crack to the top.
Pitch 1: Follow fourth class easy scramble from left to right up a ramp. Continue up crack to tree to belay from.
Pitch 2: Traverse left towards another tree and across a low angle sloped face to a crack system on the left, then up a wide dual crack system to an overhang. Traverse right under the overhang across another low angle sloped face and then up a wide crack to the top.
Location
Look for the left to right vegetation choked sloping rock on the South West corner of the thumb. It's just to the right of an obvious crack and about 20 feet right of 'The Settlement (5.7)'.
Protection
Medium to large pro. Placements are pretty straight forward for most of this climb. Belay the first pitch from the tree. Dual rope rappel from the top: three bolts to a chain with rap rings. You *might* be able to rappel down with a single 60 meter rope with rope stretch, but I wouldn't chance it.
Central AZ
San Francisco
Chandler, AZ
It was originally climbed in the 1940's by dudes in tennis shoes!
What did you expect? Mar 18, 2019