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Routes in Tom's Thumb
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Deep Freeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Garbonzo Bean T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Great Compromise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hard Drivin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hot Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kreuser's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Look But Don't Touch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Men at Work Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Pretty Girls Make Graves T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sacred Datura Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Settlement, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spare Parts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Succubus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Treiber's Deception T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ubangy Lips T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Corner T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dick Hart, Bill McMorris (1948) |
| Page Views: | 3,793 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Frankel on Dec 31, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman |
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Access Issue: Access:
Details
The only access issue for this area is the seasonal closure of routes on the north side of Tom's Thumb.
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016
Details
The temporary closure at Tom’s Thumb has been re-opened as the falcons have fully fledged and are no longer in the area. This year there were 5 beautiful off spring! Thank you so much for respecting the temporary closure, your commitment to the Preserve and it's wildlife is appreciated.
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Description
Good beginner's lead route to the top of the Thumb. This was the original route way back in 1948! Originally rated Fourth class, but it's really a low 5th class climb. Actually, the first pitch is fourth class, but the 2nd pitch is fifth class.
Pitch 1: Follow fourth class easy scramble from left to right up a ramp. Continue up crack to tree to belay from.
Pitch 2: Traverse left towards another tree and across a low angle sloped face to a crack system on the left, then up a wide dual crack system to an overhang. Traverse right under the overhang across another low angle sloped face and then up a wide crack to the top.
Pitch 1: Follow fourth class easy scramble from left to right up a ramp. Continue up crack to tree to belay from.
Pitch 2: Traverse left towards another tree and across a low angle sloped face to a crack system on the left, then up a wide dual crack system to an overhang. Traverse right under the overhang across another low angle sloped face and then up a wide crack to the top.
Location
Look for the left to right vegetation choked sloping rock on the South West corner of the thumb. It's just to the right of an obvious crack and about 20 feet right of 'The Settlement (5.7)'.
Protection
Medium to large pro. Placements are pretty straight forward for most of this climb. Belay the first pitch from the tree. Two bolt anchor on the summit for second pitch belay. The Thumb can be safely rappelled with a 60m rope from the chains located on the west side of the thumb or with a 70M rope from the anchors above Hotline to the south east.
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