Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Hart, Bill McMorris (1948)
Page Views: 2,094 total · 23/month
Shared By: Scott Frankel on Dec 31, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access: Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016 Details


Good beginner's lead route to the top of the Thumb. This was the original route way back in 1948! Originally rated Fourth class, but it's really a low 5th class climb. Actually, the first pitch is fourth class, but the 2nd pitch is fifth class.

Pitch 1: Follow fourth class easy scramble from left to right up a ramp. Continue up crack to tree to belay from.

Pitch 2: Traverse left towards another tree and across a low angle sloped face to a crack system on the left, then up a wide dual crack system to an overhang. Traverse right under the overhang across another low angle sloped face and then up a wide crack to the top.


Look for the left to right vegetation choked sloping rock on the South West corner of the thumb. It's just to the right of an obvious crack and about 20 feet right of 'The Settlement (5.7)'.


Medium to large pro. Placements are pretty straight forward for most of this climb. Belay the first pitch from the tree. Dual rope rappel from the top: three bolts to a chain with rap rings. You *might* be able to rappel down with a single 60 meter rope with rope stretch, but I wouldn't chance it.


Andrew Poet
Central AZ
Andrew Poet   Central AZ
It is possible to single rope rappel with a 60m rope. Head South towards the treetop you can barely see from the top. Jun 3, 2016
John Clark
San Francisco
John Clark   San Francisco
Would this be a good way down if you found yourself on top of the thumb remembering you left your rope at home? Mar 7, 2019 · Temporary Report
Bharath Tata
Chandler, AZ
Bharath Tata   Chandler, AZ
Disappointingly easy (we thought we were climbing a different route). The unprotected slab climbing at the start of the second "pitch" alleviates some of the boredom. John Clark, I would want to downclimb that bit, but the rest would be fairly secure, I think. Mar 17, 2019
Greg Opland    
"Disappointingly easy" ???? It's a 4th Class route...
It was originally climbed in the 1940's by dudes in tennis shoes!
What did you expect? Mar 18, 2019