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Routes in Tom's Thumb

Deep Freeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Garbonzo Bean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Drivin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kreuser's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sacred Datura Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Succubus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Treiber's Deception T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Corner T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
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Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Hart, Bill McMorris (1948)
Page Views: 1,667 total · 20/month
Shared By: Scott Frankel on Dec 31, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access: Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016 Details

Description

Good beginner's lead route to the top of the Thumb. This was the original route way back in 1948! Originally rated Fourth class, but it's really a low 5th class climb. Actually, the first pitch is fourth class, but the 2nd pitch is fifth class.

Pitch 1: Follow fourth class easy scramble from left to right up a ramp. Continue up crack to tree to belay from.

Pitch 2: Traverse left towards another tree and across a low angle sloped face to a crack system on the left, then up a wide dual crack system to an overhang. Traverse right under the overhang across another low angle sloped face and then up a wide crack to the top.

Location

Look for the left to right vegetation choked sloping rock on the South West corner of the thumb. It's just to the right of an obvious crack and about 20 feet right of 'The Settlement (5.7)'.

Protection

Medium to large pro. Placements are pretty straight forward for most of this climb. Belay the first pitch from the tree. Dual rope rappel from the top: three bolts to a chain with rap rings. You *might* be able to rappel down with a single 60 meter rope with rope stretch, but I wouldn't chance it.

Photos

apoet
AZ
  5.3
apoet   AZ
  5.3
It is possible to single rope rappel with a 60m rope. Head South towards the treetop you can barely see from the top. Jun 3, 2016

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