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Routes in Tom's Thumb

Deep Freeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Garbonzo Bean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Drivin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kreuser's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sacred Datura Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Succubus T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Treiber's Deception T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Corner T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
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Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Larry Treiber, Chuck Graf, Bob Watts, Phil Martineau, 1973
Page Views: 3,202 total · 22/month
Shared By: Michael John Gray on Aug 30, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access: Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is the obvious upper offwidth crack on the West side of the N. face of Toms Thumb. The first pitch climbs a nice hand crack with good pro 5.7 that progessively gets easier up some face and crack to an alcolve roof directly below the upper offwidth section a good belay can be found here. Next P2 Traverse left onto the face "very exciting" and continue up to the wicked exposed and scary offwidth "grand fun" maybe pro with a 3.5 and a 4 camalot although we found ourselves moving up a 4 with some moderate runout.

Location [Suggest Change]

N. face of Toms Thumb Obvious upper offwidth.

Protection [Suggest Change]

medium to large cams up to 4 camalot.

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lou
lou  
Great climb... very nice handcrack for the first crack.. then long slings for the left traverse at the bird shit ledge.. ( was wet from recent rain ).. then up the off width... 5.9 IMHO... take some wide stuff for the upper or be comfortable with walking a BD 4 for a ways. Loose blocks on the upper part of the first crack just before the traverse. Feb 12, 2008
Scott Z
Highlands Ranch, CO
 
Scott Z   Highlands Ranch, CO
 
lower crack was nice. For a single pitch run, bring long slings or deal with ropedrag or the potential whipper at the traverse - good exposure, poor pro below traverse, but can get some pro in at/above to the right (hence long slings). I'm not big on OW climbing anyway and found ropedrag to be an added drag. plus would've been nice to bring a #5. Feb 8, 2009
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
Solid physical climb. Physical crux right off the deck, mental crux is the smell on the traverse. Fun climb to lead on hexes. Jan 10, 2010
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Did this one again after a few years on Hanna's bidding. Still a physical climb with a hard start and the mental crux of the traverse is very real. If you don't like runout bring wide gear for the top. I didn't and was about 30 ft above my last piece before feeling secure. Feb 19, 2012
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Avoid this, P1 goes to fist size quick on polished feet, smells like shit the whole way. I took one look at the shit stain on the traverse and opted for straight up, which sucks too, on chossy rock. Sep 25, 2012

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