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Routes in Tom's Thumb

Deep Freeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Garbonzo Bean T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hard Drivin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kreuser's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sacred Datura Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Succubus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Treiber's Deception T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Corner T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Larry Treiber, Chuck Graf, Bob Watts, Phil Martineau, 1973
Page Views: 3,038 total, 22/month
Shared By: Michael John Gray on Aug 30, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016 Details
Access: Details

Description

This is the obvious upper offwidth crack on the West side of the N. face of Toms Thumb. The first pitch climbs a nice hand crack with good pro 5.7 that progessively gets easier up some face and crack to an alcolve roof directly below the upper offwidth section a good belay can be found here. Next P2 Traverse left onto the face "very exciting" and continue up to the wicked exposed and scary offwidth "grand fun" maybe pro with a 3.5 and a 4 camalot although we found ourselves moving up a 4 with some moderate runout.

Location

N. face of Toms Thumb Obvious upper offwidth.

Protection

medium to large cams up to 4 camalot.
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Avoid this, P1 goes to fist size quick on polished feet, smells like shit the whole way. I took one look at the shit stain on the traverse and opted for straight up, which sucks too, on chossy rock. Sep 25, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Did this one again after a few years on Hanna's bidding. Still a physical climb with a hard start and the mental crux of the traverse is very real. If you don't like runout bring wide gear for the top. I didn't and was about 30 ft above my last piece before feeling secure. Feb 19, 2012
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
Solid physical climb. Physical crux right off the deck, mental crux is the smell on the traverse. Fun climb to lead on hexes. Jan 10, 2010
Scott Z
Highlands Ranch, CO
 
Scott Z   Highlands Ranch, CO
 
lower crack was nice. For a single pitch run, bring long slings or deal with ropedrag or the potential whipper at the traverse - good exposure, poor pro below traverse, but can get some pro in at/above to the right (hence long slings). I'm not big on OW climbing anyway and found ropedrag to be an added drag. plus would've been nice to bring a #5. Feb 8, 2009
lou
lou  
Great climb... very nice handcrack for the first crack.. then long slings for the left traverse at the bird shit ledge.. ( was wet from recent rain ).. then up the off width... 5.9 IMHO... take some wide stuff for the upper or be comfortable with walking a BD 4 for a ways. Loose blocks on the upper part of the first crack just before the traverse. Feb 12, 2008