Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,553 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 14, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access: Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016 Details


An interesting line with some 'interesting' rock, but pretty good overall. The climb has a little of everything and is enjoyable if you don't let a few loose sections bother you. It is safe overall.
Down and right about 5 meters from Treiber's Deception, the trade route of this rock, there are a pair of left-leaning cracks that merge 8 meters up the rock. The thinner one of the two on the left is the beginning of Hot Line. Climb up this to the merge and continue up and left to the terminus of the crack, then climb up into a weird pod and then crank a few meters hard right to a hanging flake and get established in another crack (crux). Protect this and make awkward moves to finish on the final slab above.
Belay up top and then rap to the west. We did this on a single 70M rope, but it was close.


This route is on the lower part of the East face of Tom's Thumb, just left of a large left-facing dihedral ('Look But Don't Touch', 10b) and right of Treibler's Deception.


A standard rack with cams to fist-sized (3.5"). This route meanders a bit and longer slings are good.


Phew.. more like "Hardline" than Hotline. hmmmm.... 10 plus. Strenuous from the get go..all the way up. Awkward in sections...with polished tiny feet. Hangdog lead. Save two BD golds and blues for the upper handcrack. Not many rests. Classic. Feb 12, 2008
max gibbons
max gibbons   AZ y TO
Yeah, I'll agree that the climb's safe overall, but unless some--como se dice--grace is used on lead, the belay might not be for long.

But then, anything less and you're an animal I suppose. May 7, 2009
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Awesome and stout climb! Funny, I've been calling it "Hardline" anyway. Hot Line, huh. It is hot!

Oh, and there's a relatively new (as in sometime in the last few months or so) and very nice chain anchor on top that can be rapped safely with a 60m rope and it brings you to the base of this route. Apr 1, 2013
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
Did this climb some 4 months ago with Manny. Really awesome line (although my memory may be more fond due to the fact that i had always wanted to lead it and somehow got it clean first try). Need to go back and climb it again. Bring doubles of 1's and 2's, possibly triples if you want to sew it up. It's burly. May 6, 2013
Kevin D
Phoenix, AZ
Kevin D   Phoenix, AZ
4 star route for the McDowells. Anchors are poorly placed for cleaning. 70m gets you down. 60 would be a rope stretcher Dec 24, 2014
Greg Opland    
Crusty old guy comment...

I'm kind of curious what you mean by "poorly placed" anchors. You pretty much have to construct your own for this route and belay someone from the top. I was just up there a little over a week ago. You can see the holes where the knucklehead put bolts in at the top so he could (seriously) solo aid-climb this line on top rope.

So this is a build-your-own like it always has been, and belay your second from the top (aka TOPrope). It wasn't that long ago when you had to haul two ropes up to rap off Tom's Thumb because a single 50m rope didn't make it. I really hope that we don't have to have bolted anchors at the top of everything now just so someone can have convenience. Low-impact should still be something we strive for, even if it's a little out of style with respect to climbing now. Dec 25, 2014
Kevin D
Phoenix, AZ
Kevin D   Phoenix, AZ
Didn't mean any harm by my comment. Just wanted to say that if you lower or rap the route to clean it (which we did so we could both lead it) it is difficult to swing over to clean your gear. It is much better done as a leader and follower scenario. Feb 10, 2015
Greg Opland    
No worries Kevin. Just seems like every time I climb Tom's Thumb, there are more bolts pounded into the top. Just sharing some low-impact hope for anyone (reading this) that might be thinking about adding to the heap. Feb 12, 2015