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Routes in Tom's Thumb

Deep Freeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Garbonzo Bean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Drivin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kreuser's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sacred Datura Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Succubus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Treiber's Deception T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Corner T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Ficker, Jim Waugh, 1981
Page Views: 1,002 total, 7/month
Shared By: Dustin Wildermuth on Mar 14, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016 Details
Access: Details

Description

Pitch 1: One of the best pitches on the thumb! Edge up the pointed boulder for 30' to the top of it with no pro. Don't blow it. Reach across the gap and clip your first bolt. Face climb up and left past 3 bolts to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. This first pitch is 5.10b and classic by itself.
Pitch 2: Start on the right side of the ledge. Climb over horizontal overlaps to a bolt. Hard face moves above lead to a horizontal crack. Follow it up and right onto the summit.

Location

Located on the East face starting on a large pointed boulder. Can't miss it.

Protection

Quickdraws, Stoppers, and small to medium cams.
Bring a 1.5 friend to place between the 1st and 2nd bolt.

Photos

pseudalpine
  5.11
pseudalpine  
  5.11
Thx Manny et al. We could still see the fresh drill dust New Year's day. Jan 3, 2016
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
I have provided the Karabin Museum with the hardware I remove. Jan 1, 2016
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Do you guys hold on to the old hangers? Jan 1, 2016
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
Four bolts replaced with modern hardware thanks to American Safe Climbing Association.
Dec 31, 2015