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Routes in Tom's Thumb

Deep Freeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Garbonzo Bean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Drivin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kreuser's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sacred Datura Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Succubus T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Treiber's Deception T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Corner T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: FA Larry Treiber, Dave Hodson, Terry Price '76, FFA Stan Mish, Jim Waugh '78
Page Views: 2,258 total · 17/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Access: Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016 Details

Description [Edit]

Far and away the best single route in the McDowells- plus it goes to the top of a tower. Twin 10+/11- cruxes, one low and one high plus quality climbing on this long pitch, or obvious two pitch split. A must do (before access denied?).

Location [Edit]

North face of Tom Thumb, about 25' right of Sucubus is an obvious crack system leading to summit.

Protection [Edit]

Bolts, stoppers and camming units to 3"

Photos

jayci Ferrimani
Flagstaff
 
jayci Ferrimani   Flagstaff
 
I did this climb not to long ago. It has a terrible amount of pink bird shit in the middle of the climb. Not as classic as I had hoped! Jul 10, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.11a/b
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.11a/b
Aside from the bird shit this route is great. I would give it 3 starts but had to give it 4 because the last guy that commented gave it a bomb. Mar 30, 2012
Anthony Hugo Almanza
Phoenix, AZ
 
Anthony Hugo Almanza   Phoenix, AZ
 
Amazing. Deep Freeze has a little of everything from straight on jams to a mini dihedral for the first crux area. Takes doubles from .3 to #3 c4 camalots, having a #4 doesn't hurt either. Mar 22, 2013
Kevin D
Phoenix, AZ
 
Kevin D   Phoenix, AZ
 
The two upper bolts are modern and the other one is backed up easily with a nut making it a well protected climb. I would bring c3s or equivalent also. Super fun climb that tests your crack climbing, stemming, and technical face climbing with 3 cruxes. Stiff for 11- Dec 9, 2015

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