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Routes in Tom's Thumb

Deep Freeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Garbonzo Bean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Drivin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kreuser's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sacred Datura Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Succubus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Treiber's Deception T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Corner T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: FA Larry Treiber, Dave Hodson, Terry Price '76, FFA Stan Mish, Jim Waugh '78
Page Views: 2,317 total · 17/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 28, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Access: Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016 Details

Description

Far and away the best single route in the McDowells- plus it goes to the top of a tower. Twin 10+/11- cruxes, one low and one high plus quality climbing on this long pitch, or obvious two pitch split. A must do (before access denied?).

Location

North face of Tom Thumb, about 25' right of Sucubus is an obvious crack system leading to summit.

Protection

Bolts, stoppers and camming units to 3"

Photos

jayci Ferrimani
Flagstaff
 
jayci Ferrimani   Flagstaff
 
I did this climb not to long ago. It has a terrible amount of pink bird shit in the middle of the climb. Not as classic as I had hoped! Jul 10, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.11a/b
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.11a/b
Aside from the bird shit this route is great. I would give it 3 starts but had to give it 4 because the last guy that commented gave it a bomb. Mar 30, 2012
Anthony Hugo Almanza
Phoenix, AZ
 
Anthony Hugo Almanza   Phoenix, AZ
 
Amazing. Deep Freeze has a little of everything from straight on jams to a mini dihedral for the first crux area. Takes doubles from .3 to #3 c4 camalots, having a #4 doesn't hurt either. Mar 22, 2013
Kevin D
Phoenix, AZ
 
Kevin D   Phoenix, AZ
 
The two upper bolts are modern and the other one is backed up easily with a nut making it a well protected climb. I would bring c3s or equivalent also. Super fun climb that tests your crack climbing, stemming, and technical face climbing with 3 cruxes. Stiff for 11- Dec 9, 2015

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