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Elevation: 3,000 ft 914 m
GPS: 33.68174, -111.81143
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Page Views: 51,049 total · 228/month
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on Feb 21, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen
Warning Access Issue: Access: DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Tom's Thumb is a prominent 140-foot plug of desert granite that perches atop the McDowell Mountains ridgeline. It is visible from miles in all directions. Originally called "The Dork" by the old time Phoenix climbers, it was rechristened Tom's Thumb in honor of climber Tom Kreuser back in the day.

The rock and the routes on Tom's Thumb are mostly in the excellent range. The harder routes here are some of the best you'll find on any granite crag in the Phoenix area. Because of the slightly burly approach, and the general notion that granite climbing is out of style these days in Phoenix, you're not likely to have to share any routes while visiting the Thumb.

Beautiful, incredibly classic place to climb.

Getting There Suggest change

Approach starts from Tom's Thumb Trailhead. Hike all the way up the Tom's Thumb Trail. Continue past the intersection with the East End Trail (marker EE1 - sign) as the trail turns westward. A short while later, you'll run across an access trail (marker TT7) and a right turn that will take you to Tom's Thumb. Expect a lot of company on this, it is a very popular destination with hikers. The hike is around 2.25 miles.

A fun day of moderate climbing can also be done by approaching Gardener's Wall, climbing a route to the top, and then downclimbing off the back and hiking up to Tom's Thumb for more fun!

17 Total Climbs

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Location: Tom's Thumb Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Tom's Thumb

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 35
West Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 13
Kreuser's Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 79
Treiber's Deception
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Garbonzo Bean
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 19
The Settlement
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 12
Sacred Datura Direct
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Hot Line
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Succubus
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Hard Drivin'
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 13
Deep Freeze
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Corner
 35
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Kreuser's Route
 13
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Treiber's Deception
 79
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Garbonzo Bean
 23
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Settlement
 19
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sacred Datura Direct
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Hot Line
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Succubus
 20
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hard Drivin'
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Deep Freeze
 13
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Tom's Thumb »

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