Tom's Thumb Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 3,000 ft |
GPS: | 33.682, -111.811 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 22,663 total · 143/month |
Shared By: | Anonymous Climber on Feb 21, 2006 |
Admins: | Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland |
For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
The temporary closure at Tom’s Thumb has been re-opened as the falcons have fully fledged and are no longer in the area. This year there were 5 beautiful off spring! Thank you so much for respecting the temporary closure, your commitment to the Preserve and it's wildlife is appreciated.
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Description
Tom's Thumb is a prominent 140-foot plug of desert granite that perches atop the McDowell Mountains ridgeline. It is visible from miles in all directions. Originally called "The Dork" by the old time Phoenix climbers, it was rechristened Tom's Thumb in honor of climber Tom Kreuser back in the day.
The rock and the routes on Tom's Thumb are mostly in the excellent range. The harder routes here are some of the best you'll find on any granite crag in the Phoenix area. Because of the slightly burly approach, and the general notion that granite climbing is out of style these days in Phoenix, you're not likely to have to share any routes while visiting the Thumb.
Beautiful, incredibly classic place to climb.
The rock and the routes on Tom's Thumb are mostly in the excellent range. The harder routes here are some of the best you'll find on any granite crag in the Phoenix area. Because of the slightly burly approach, and the general notion that granite climbing is out of style these days in Phoenix, you're not likely to have to share any routes while visiting the Thumb.
Beautiful, incredibly classic place to climb.
Getting There
Approach as for Gardener's Wall parking, but pick out a trail through the desert aiming for a drainage leading straight down the hillside from the Thumb. Watch out for snakes in the warm times of the year!
A nice day of moderate climbing can also be done by approaching Gardener's Wall, climbing a route to the top, and then downclimbing off the back and hiking up to Tom's Thumb for more fun!
A nice day of moderate climbing can also be done by approaching Gardener's Wall, climbing a route to the top, and then downclimbing off the back and hiking up to Tom's Thumb for more fun!
Classic Climbing Routes at Tom's Thumb
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Update: New Access for North Area of McDowells
In May we reported on the recent success of the Arizona Mountaineering Club (AMC) and local Arizona climbers in working with the City of Scottsdale to open the north area of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve to climbing. Part of the climbing management plan requires that climbers use official parking areas and designated trails, which the local climbing community is currently working to establish. The AMC is pleased to report that the new Toms Thumb trail is now open and can be accessed from a temporary parking area in the general vicinity of Morrell's Parking Lot, where the permanent parking will eventually be located.
For more information on the Toms Thumb Trail and designated access to the other historic climbing crags in the area, visit the Arizona Mountaineering Club's website. Jul 16, 2009
Mesa AZ
Mesa AZ
I am relatively new to the Phoenix area, but I know every other crag I've climbed at in the US refrains from climbing while and where raptors are nesting. Although I am no expert, it seems to me that all routes right of Treiber's (5.7) and left of Great Compromise (5.9) should be avoided out of good climbing ethic for the time being.
Can somebody who actually knows what they're talking about here weigh in? Feb 23, 2014
cheers lou May 20, 2014
Arizona
I have seen falcons elsewhere in AZ, Isolation Canyon for one. In that area, I have noticed their nest for years and avoided the nearby routes when they were active. I have seen people climb near them and they will let you know when you are too close. If you see a nest or falcons near your route, move on.
Contacting the Scottsdale land managers is only going to fan the fire to close everything. Hopefully Scottsdale will have the same response as the Natl Forest when informed of the falcons in Isolatiion: they aren't endangered. That will leave us as the stewards of the cliffs.
Please share the places we enjoy with the wild things. Show them respect and care for them without intervention by the "Authorities". May 21, 2014
cheers.. lou May 21, 2014
Arizona
Just what law are you referring to concerning harrassment of falcons etc? The only one cited was the Migratory Species Act. It is a stretch to use that law but it has been used so far. Other than that, they deserve the same respect any animal is due, including leaving them to nest alone.
If you can point out a law, that would be dandy. The closures in AZ you mentioned are under scrutiny as well. You can't hold everyone accountable with useless policies set in stone; that has to change. Feb 24, 2015
-dan Nov 19, 2017