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Tom's Thumb Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Tom's Thumb

L › R R › L A › Z

	Deep Freeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Garbonzo Bean T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Great Compromise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hard Drivin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hot Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Kreuser's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Look But Don't Touch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Men at Work Variation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Pretty Girls Make Graves T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sacred Datura Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Settlement, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Spare Parts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Succubus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Treiber's Deception T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ubangy Lips T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	West Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	3,000 ft	914 m
GPS:	33.68174, -111.81143 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	51,141 total · 223/month
Shared By:	Anonymous Climber on Feb 21, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Access: Details

The only access issue for this area is the seasonal closure of routes on the north side of Tom's Thumb.
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!

For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve

Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016 Details

The temporary closure at Tom’s Thumb has been re-opened as the falcons have fully fledged and are no longer in the area. This year there were 5 beautiful off spring! Thank you so much for respecting the temporary closure, your commitment to the Preserve and it's wildlife is appreciated.

For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve

Description

Tom's Thumb is a prominent 140-foot plug of desert granite that perches atop the McDowell Mountains ridgeline. It is visible from miles in all directions. Originally called "The Dork" by the old time Phoenix climbers, it was rechristened Tom's Thumb in honor of climber Tom Kreuser back in the day.

The rock and the routes on Tom's Thumb are mostly in the excellent range. The harder routes here are some of the best you'll find on any granite crag in the Phoenix area. Because of the slightly burly approach, and the general notion that granite climbing is out of style these days in Phoenix, you're not likely to have to share any routes while visiting the Thumb.

Beautiful, incredibly classic place to climb.

Getting There

Approach starts from Tom's Thumb Trailhead. Hike all the way up the Tom's Thumb Trail. Continue past the intersection with the East End Trail (marker EE1 - sign) as the trail turns westward. A short while later, you'll run across an access trail (marker TT7) and a right turn that will take you to Tom's Thumb. Expect a lot of company on this, it is a very popular destination with hikers. The hike is around 2.25 miles.

A fun day of moderate climbing can also be done by approaching Gardener's Wall, climbing a route to the top, and then downclimbing off the back and hiking up to Tom's Thumb for more fun!

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tom's Thumb

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 36 ● West Corner Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 13 ● Kreuser's Route Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 79 ● Treiber's Deception Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 23 ● Garbonzo Bean Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 19 ● The Settlement Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 12 ● Sacred Datura Direct Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 17 ● Hot Line Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 20 ● Succubus Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 5 ● Hard Drivin' Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 14 ● Deep Freeze Trad