Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: (Original) Larry Treiber, Barbara Zinn, 1974 (Direct) Jim Waugh, John Ficker, 1980
Page Views: 1,818 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 16, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Access: Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016 Details

Description

The mental crux of this climb is reaching the first bolt. A slabby start with small holds leads up and right for several meters to that point, from which you traverse right to access a good crack. Climb that crack to the top of the rock on good locks and good pro.

Location

This route in on the North Face of Tom's Thumb. It is found by going just left of a right-facing dihedral that turns into a right-leaning roof 6 meters up (this is the climb 'Sucubus' a 5.10a). The crack that is accessed via face climbing is continuous with the initial start of Sucubus were you to skip the roof to the right.

Protection

A set of nuts a few smaller cams and some slings. A bolt down low is good protection just as the distance from the dirt would be too dangerous.

Photos