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Routes in Tom's Thumb

Deep Freeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Garbonzo Bean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Drivin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kreuser's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sacred Datura Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Succubus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Treiber's Deception T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Corner T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: (Original) Larry Treiber, Barbara Zinn, 1974 (Direct) Jim Waugh, John Ficker, 1980
Page Views: 1,471 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 16, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access: Details

Description

The mental crux of this climb is reaching the first bolt. A slabby start with small holds leads up and right for several meters to that point, from which you traverse right to access a good crack. Climb that crack to the top of the rock on good locks and good pro.

Location

This route in on the North Face of Tom's Thumb. It is found by going just left of a right-facing dihedral that turns into a right-leaning roof 6 meters up (this is the climb 'Sucubus' a 5.10a). The crack that is accessed via face climbing is continuous with the initial start of Sucubus were you to skip the roof to the right.

Protection

A set of nuts a few smaller cams and some slings. A bolt down low is good protection just as the distance from the dirt would be too dangerous.

Photos

Kevin D
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
Kevin D   Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
Exiting the alcove/cave in the middle is the crux and feels insecure. The run out at the top is on easy ground. Small offset nuts were useful at the start. Nov 19, 2013
Starting on Succubus into this must be the non-direct? Dec 1, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Found the climbing to the first bolt to be easy and there are a couple good placements to protect. Crux for me was exiting the alcove (with an amazing 2-foot mound of guano in it) by stemming and getting up into the thin crack above. The mental crux was the extreme runout between thin gear for the top 50 odd feet or so. A couple bolts would help (I think the hanger from the original is now gone)! Feb 19, 2012

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