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Routes in Tom's Thumb

Deep Freeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Garbonzo Bean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hard Drivin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kreuser's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pinto Bean aka Garbanzo Bean Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Sacred Datura Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Succubus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Treiber's Deception T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Corner T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Larry & Beckey Treiber, Bill Sewery, Tom Kreuser, 1967 FFA: Lance & Dane Daugherty, Larry Treiber, 1968
Page Views: 4,534 total · 29/month
Shared By: Anonymous Climber on Mar 11, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Access: Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016 Details


With an original rating of 5.5, after climbing it, one understands where this route got it's name. Even at it's current grade of 5.7, you might think theres still a bit of deception going on!

Stem your way up between the main wall and the boulder to reach a layback flake on the main wall. Get something in and then make the dicey-feeling move onto the main wall. Climb up the crack to a face protected by a bolt. Move out and around the left and up to a stance below a crack (bolt). Lever your way up this corner, following it up left to the base of a wide crack. This wide crack leads to the top.

Excellent climbing on this route, with moves that span the spectrum from face to crack, from laybacking to offwidth. The all-encompassing renaissance climb!


Treiber's Deception is found on the southeast corner of Tom's Thumb where a boulder forms a chimney. This is the start of the route.


Set of nuts, cams up to 4"
Dustin Wildermuth
Flagstaff, AZ
Dustin Wildermuth   Flagstaff, AZ
Very interesting "bolts" found on this one. Mar 14, 2006
Brandon Bogardus
Scottsdale, AZ
Brandon Bogardus   Scottsdale, AZ
Classic climb. This is a great one to bring new climbers on. You do not need any off-width gear, as the off-width sections are short. Apr 3, 2006
Brandon Bogardus
Scottsdale, AZ
Brandon Bogardus   Scottsdale, AZ
Greg's opinion is probably the correct one. One wide piece of gear is you aren't climbing far beyond this grade. Otherwise, there are lots of face hold inside the offwidths, thus lessening thier severity (and the need for wide pro). Feb 3, 2007
Jim French
Jim French   Arizona
this was my second trad lead climb and it was a little scary. the bolts on the face section are old and sketchy but are there so i used them. i felt that the climb is broken into 3-4 boulder problems with good ledges to rest on after each "problem". the most difficult for me was the last section due to lack of a large cam (and lack of experience). getting past the beginning chimney section is a bit hight dependent. all in all i think its an excellent climb with lots of of variation in climbing style. so with that should climb it :) Oct 29, 2007
Two #4's would be helpful for a 5.7 leader, bolts are junk but aren't really necessary anyway.

70m gets to the ground easy on the east face rap station. Sep 25, 2012
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
Went on a hike up there, and was met with a disturbing sight... a huge new silver bolt had been shat out right at the step across... any thoughts on that? Seemed like an atrocity to me, considering you can pro it right there. Just wondering what the dealio was... Nov 2, 2012
Please remember the City of Scottsdale policies (shown in the Comments on the overview of the McDowell Mountains). No new bolts in new locations. It is in our interest to keep these things relatively quiet and handle them internally and not draw public attention to them.

As far as this "bolt" at the step across, several folks had mentioned it to me but my understanding is that it had been a mirage and is no longer visible. Nov 26, 2012
Phoenix, AZ
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
The second "bolt" on this protecting the crux is able to be bent with your bare hands. Probably not the best first trad lead. Face moves on the offwidths are super helpful. The pro was solid where it was. A #4 is nice, but you can leave it on the ground if you have the number five for the top. Not the best time I have had out at the McDowell's. Rap off the Northwest side with a 60. Once was enough for me on this Feb 17, 2013
manuel rangel
manuel rangel   Arizona
Both bolts replaced. One Leeper hanger has Bill Sewery's 3 dimples on it.
Dec 31, 2015

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