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West Corner

5.2, Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 1.8 from 18 votes
FA: Dick Hart, Bill McMorris (1948)
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > McDowell Mountains > Tom's Thumb
Access Issue: Access: Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure Lifted -2016 Details

Description

Good beginner's lead route to the top of the Thumb. This was the original route way back in 1948! Originally rated Fourth class, but it's really a low 5th class climb. Actually, the first pitch is fourth class, but the 2nd pitch is fifth class.

Pitch 1: Follow fourth class easy scramble from left to right up a ramp. Continue up crack to tree to belay from.

Pitch 2: Traverse left towards another tree and across a low angle sloped face to a crack system on the left, then up a wide dual crack system to an overhang. Traverse right under the overhang across another low angle sloped face and then up a wide crack to the top.

Location

Look for the left to right vegetation choked sloping rock on the South West corner of the thumb. It's just to the right of an obvious crack and about 20 feet right of 'The Settlement (5.7)'.

Protection

Medium to large pro. Placements are pretty straight forward for most of this climb. Belay the first pitch from the tree. Dual rope rappel from the top: three bolts to a chain with rap rings. You *might* be able to rappel down with a single 60 meter rope with rope stretch, but I wouldn't chance it.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing pitch one.
[Hide Photo] Climbing pitch one.
Suzanne finishing the second pitch of 'West Face'
[Hide Photo] Suzanne finishing the second pitch of 'West Face'
Susan starting her rappel off of Tom's Thumb.
[Hide Photo] Susan starting her rappel off of Tom's Thumb.
Start of 'West Corner'. Follow the ramp of vegetation to the first tree belay up high.
[Hide Photo] Start of 'West Corner'. Follow the ramp of vegetation to the first tree belay up high.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andrew Poet
Central AZ
  5.2
[Hide Comment] It is possible to single rope rappel with a 60m rope. Head South towards the treetop you can barely see from the top. Jun 3, 2016
Bharath Tata
Chandler, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Disappointingly easy (we thought we were climbing a different route). The unprotected slab climbing at the start of the second "pitch" alleviates some of the boredom. John Clark, I would want to downclimb that bit, but the rest would be fairly secure, I think. Mar 17, 2019
[Hide Comment] "Disappointingly easy" ???? It's a 4th Class route...
It was originally climbed in the 1940's by dudes in tennis shoes!
What did you expect? Mar 18, 2019