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Routes in Black Magic

Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hexed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
True Lies S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: N/A
Page Views: 717 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jeff Larson on Sep 29, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Not sure who put this up; rumoured to be called "Needles and Pins" Like many early AF routes this one's still cleaning up. Should be 11A when it does. Can feel much harder if you don't find the sequence (or clean holds). Take a brush....

Starts off with some stemming in a corner, which leads to a fun crux with some descent exposure. Good rest after the crux, then follows a crack to the chains.

Location

This is the right-most bolt line on the wall to the right of the cave.

A few feet right of Orogeny.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-chain anchor.

Photos

Ryan Arnold
  5.11-
Ryan Arnold  
  5.11-
Seemed like a hold was missing from the crux this time around, I'm guessing a block came off. Definitely 5.11 climbing if you go left at the little roof. Sep 29, 2017
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c/d
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c/d
Soft for 11a. But a decent warmup for the better routes at the crag. Watch for loose rock from your climbers left foot. Unlike orogeny it's as chossy as it looks. Should continue to improve w traffic Jun 9, 2013