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Routes in Black Magic

Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hexed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
True Lies S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bill Boyle and Boone Speed
Page Views: 88 total, 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 29, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

A thin, perplexing start leads to some tenuous moves trending up and left to the third bolt.

From the third bolt head more-or-less straight up through an overhanging section with some good holds, and some-not-so-good holds. Getting up and past the fourth bolt is probably the crux; it requires some body-positioning trickery, and a bit of faith that holds are coming (it feels a wee bit exposed).

After the last bolt is a concentration-inducing runout to the chains.

Location

Found on the downhill (left) side of the wall to the left of the Black Magic cave.

Just after starting up the hill on the wooden steps there is a left-facing dihedral with bolts along its left side, and at the top of the dihedral a bolt on the right side. This is not the route.

The route is the next bolt line left. The first two bolts trend slightly left; the third bolt, above a shallow ramp is farther left.

Note that this line shares the first three bolts with an .11c to the left.

Protection

5 bolts and a 2-chain anchor.

Photos

KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
2 cruxes. Past the second bolt is thin with an excruciating right hand side pull undercling thing with nubbins for feet. Then balance onto the ramp. The upper crux holds shallow pockets and obscure feet. I wish it had another bolt to the chains. Fun. Aug 18, 2012