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Routes in Black Magic

Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hexed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
True Lies S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Tyson Marshal
Page Views: 172 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jras on Nov 13, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Start on Helix. After the 6th bolt break left, into some upside down climbing through some pods. Pull out the the lip of the cave and finish up a tricky, exposed slab.

Protection

11 bolts to chains

Photos

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Anus Herder
Montrose, CO
 
Anus Herder   Montrose, CO
 
Tough hex placements on this one Oct 4, 2017
Chris Grosh
  5.13a/b
Chris Grosh  
  5.13a/b
This route has fantastic bouldery moves on it and a really interesting/tricky sequence that requires both power and finesse. I would venture to say its harder than 12d. It feels a good bit more challenging than Hell, Malvado, Underdog, and Teardrop... maybe a touch closer to 13a/b Aug 5, 2017
Jras
 
Jras  
 
Tyson called this a 12d. I have yet to get the Redpoint, but it feels more like 13a to me. The silent crusher may have sandbagged a bit on this one. Get on it! Let's hear some more opinions Nov 13, 2016