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Routes in Black Magic

Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hexed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
True Lies S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: Tyson Marshal
Page Views: 199 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jras on Nov 13, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Start on Helix. After the 6th bolt break left, into some upside down climbing through some pods. Pull out the the lip of the cave and finish up a tricky, exposed slab.

Protection [Suggest Change]

11 bolts to chains

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Jras
 
Jras  
 
Tyson called this a 12d. I have yet to get the Redpoint, but it feels more like 13a to me. The silent crusher may have sandbagged a bit on this one. Get on it! Let's hear some more opinions Nov 13, 2016
Chris Grosh
  5.13a/b
Chris Grosh  
  5.13a/b
This route has fantastic bouldery moves on it and a really interesting/tricky sequence that requires both power and finesse. I would venture to say its harder than 12d. It feels a good bit more challenging than Hell, Malvado, Underdog, and Teardrop... maybe a touch closer to 13a/b Aug 5, 2017
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
 
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
 
Tough hex placements on this one Oct 4, 2017

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