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Routes in Black Magic

Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hexed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
True Lies S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: G. Douglass, M. Shulak
Page Views: 296 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jeremy Noring on Jul 11, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Starts at the very back of the cave, near a good size ledge. Near horizontal climbing to a set of anchors near the end of Helix

Location

Very back-center of the cave, climbing straight out towards the mouth.

Protection

~5 bolts to chains. Definitely will require cleaning on top rope, too steep to clean via lowering.

Photos

Jras  
Chris, the route that breaks left from the start of true lies is called voodoo. It's a Bill Ohran route that goes at 13c. Voodoo ends at Helix chains. Tyson Marshall did do the linkup, voodoo to Helix to hexed finish. He said 13d, buts it's probably 14a. Super impressive! Sep 16, 2017
Chris Grosh
  5.12c/d
Chris Grosh  
  5.12c/d
Does anyone have beta on the route (name, grade, info) that shares the same start as True lies but shoots all the way out the lip of the cave past Helix? Jun 13, 2017
Austin-Tucker12 Tucker
Orem, Utah
  5.12d
Austin-Tucker12 Tucker   Orem, Utah
  5.12d
I just tried this route yesterday (april 30th 2016) and I am a bit skeptical as to whether this is actually 12c. The crux move at the 3rd fixed draw is quite burly. I did unlock a toe hook- heel hook bicycle thing sequence that made the move doable, but felt a bit more like 12d-ish to me. I think this climb should get climbed far more often than it does though! Its awesome big holds on horrible feet followed by a tough boulder problem to a sweet DEEP two finger pocket sequence. Get after it!
May 1, 2016
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Admittedly I did this route a very, very long time ago (like, late 90s/early 2000s?), it's always been chossy, and I think it almost definitely has changed. I have no idea if it's still 12c-ish. It's always been thuggish. Oct 7, 2015
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
I think the beta is that its harder than 12c. Sep 30, 2015
Broseph L
Salt Lake City, UT
Broseph L   Salt Lake City, UT
If anyone has any beta on this climb, please direct message me! I'm stuck. Or most likely just not strong enough. Sep 30, 2015