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Routes in Black Magic

Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hexed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
True Lies S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Tim Roberts
Page Views: 427 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jeff Larson on Sep 29, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Pumpy pulls through the roof lead to continual nontrivial travel above the lip of the cave. Purposely primal pulls lead to at a mid-crux and do not count the chicken until it is hatched. A final redpoint move may be in order. If this is 12c then it is SOLID for the grade. Feel free to uprate.

all info pulled from here: rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor…

Location

There are now a total of 4 routes that begin on Orogeny. This is outside the cave on the right side. Not sure about other 2 but this takes the leftmost new bolt line through the steepest part of the roof after the shared start for 3 or 4 bolts.

Protection

14 bolts

Descent: 3 bolt chain anchor. This is the highest anchor that can be seen about 12' left and 15' above the Orogony anchor. Looks like the other 2 linkups end here. 60m rope!

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