For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Black Magic

Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hexed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
True Lies S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Tim Roberts
Page Views: 820 total · 10/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 29, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Excellent quality rock with some exciting movement.

A slightly balancy start with big holds leads to a slight ledge. After the ledge comes a tricky dihedral that requires stemming, liebacking, and perseverance. Don't forget to try a finger lock.

The top of the dihedral is a bit strenuous; shortly after, however, comes a respite. After the break, start up a slabby bit on rounded footholds. Either go a little and surmount a bit of a roof, or stay right for a few tenuous, balancy moves.

Continue up and right a bit and cruise to the anchors.

Protection [Suggest Change]

11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

Found on the downhill (left) side of the wall to the left of the Black Magic cave.

Just after starting up the hill on the wooden steps there is a left-facing dihedral with bolts along its left side, and at the top of the dihedral a bolt on the right side. This is the route.

Photos

0 Comments

More About Kronk

Printer-Friendly