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Routes in Black Magic

Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hexed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
True Lies S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Tim Roberts
Page Views: 798 total, 11/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 29, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Excellent quality rock with some exciting movement.

A slightly balancy start with big holds leads to a slight ledge. After the ledge comes a tricky dihedral that requires stemming, liebacking, and perseverance. Don't forget to try a finger lock.

The top of the dihedral is a bit strenuous; shortly after, however, comes a respite. After the break, start up a slabby bit on rounded footholds. Either go a little and surmount a bit of a roof, or stay right for a few tenuous, balancy moves.

Continue up and right a bit and cruise to the anchors.

Protection

11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Location

Found on the downhill (left) side of the wall to the left of the Black Magic cave.

Just after starting up the hill on the wooden steps there is a left-facing dihedral with bolts along its left side, and at the top of the dihedral a bolt on the right side. This is the route.

Photos

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