Avg: 2.4 from 23 votes
Routes in Black Magic
|Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Hexed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|True Lies S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 75 ft|
|Page Views:||798 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on Sep 29, 2011|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionExcellent quality rock with some exciting movement.
A slightly balancy start with big holds leads to a slight ledge. After the ledge comes a tricky dihedral that requires stemming, liebacking, and perseverance. Don't forget to try a finger lock.
The top of the dihedral is a bit strenuous; shortly after, however, comes a respite. After the break, start up a slabby bit on rounded footholds. Either go a little and surmount a bit of a roof, or stay right for a few tenuous, balancy moves.
Continue up and right a bit and cruise to the anchors.