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Routes in Black Magic

Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hexed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
True Lies S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jeff Pedersen
Page Views: 1,397 total, 16/month
Shared By: Greg Parker on Nov 25, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Others may disagree, but I think this route is classic. The slab start is awesome, even though you're pissed every time you have to climb it (at least I was). It's hard. After the slab, you get a decent rest before climbing through a pretty difficult boulder problem out the steepest part of the roof. Another little rest helps you recover before finishing up on insecure holds. Brilliant. This is the one route that haunts me for not redpointing before moving away....

Location

This route is located to the left of The Helix, or two routes right of Black Magic.

Protection

bolts

Photos

bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Follows the purdy blue waterstreak and then up the roof/buldge. Jun 11, 2016
nathan williamson
  5.13b/c
nathan williamson  
  5.13b/c
Amazing line!!!! Jun 16, 2013