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Routes in Black Magic

Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hexed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
True Lies S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jeff Pederson
Page Views: 1,643 total, 10/month
Shared By: Neal Carroll on Oct 11, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This route starts back downhill (East) of the Cave proper. I believe it is the farthest left route on the wall...though things have become pretty gridded out (sigh) in this section of the cliff.Pass a bolt or two and make a cool span into a left facing corner under a roof, then make a difficult move to establish yourself above the roof. Good and restful pockets leads to a hard finish. Bouldery and on good, black rock, this route climbs like it belongs at the Hideaway...and probably is a touch soft for the grade, which is rare for any of Jeff's route.

A do not miss route for AF.

Protection

6 bolts.

Photos

Leify Guy  
 
I thought the bolting job was fine, every bolt could easily be clipped from where the climbing was, and it was bolted in a somewhat straight line preventing rope drag. Apr 2, 2015
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
Agreed brad. We started left and cut over too- super fun movement. The crux for us was higher too as you said and it felt legit at 12c. Sep 10, 2013
bheller
SL UT
  5.12c
bheller   SL UT
  5.12c
A few bolts on this route, and the anchors, could be re-located to produce a better line. They are old SMC's anyways, so bring on the upgrade! Does anyone even climb this direct up the corner feature at the bottom? Seems everyone follows the lieback crack up and quite a bit left of the bolt line, and then cuts right into the corner at the third bolt...? Even with the detour, 12c felt right to me, and the crux was up higher at the second to last bolt. Jul 28, 2013
DCSwish23
Maine/Spain
  5.12b
DCSwish23   Maine/Spain
  5.12b
I agree this is a super fun climb and my favorite in AF so far, but I'd say it's a bit soft, especially for AF (I also think most things in AF seem pretty hard so all the more reason why this one felt soft comparatively). Either way, it's SO MUCH FUN! Jul 17, 2013
James Yates
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12c
James Yates   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12c
I dont think I agree that it is soft for the grade. Seemed pretty on par with other 12c's that I have climbed. This is a very good climb... one of the best I have done in AF. Jun 11, 2013
d-know
electric lady land
  5.12c
d-know   electric lady land
  5.12c
best route at black magic area Jan 28, 2006