All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > Black Magic

Problem Child

Name: Problem Child
Rating: 3.5

5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in Black Magic

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Designer Babies S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Fatal Discharge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Hexed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	True Lies S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Voodoo S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

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Type:	Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	Jeff Pederson
Page Views:	2,984 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Neal Carroll on Oct 11, 2004
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.

Description

This route starts back downhill (East) of the Cave proper. I believe it is the farthest left route on the wall...though things have become pretty gridded out (sigh) in this section of the cliff.Pass a bolt or two and make a cool span into a left facing corner under a roof, then make a difficult move to establish yourself above the roof. Good and restful pockets leads to a hard finish. Bouldery and on good, black rock, this route climbs like it belongs at the Hideaway...and probably is a touch soft for the grade, which is rare for any of Jeff's route.

A do not miss route for AF.