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Routes in Black Magic

Black Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chalk On The Trigger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climb Interrupted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Distraction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Helix S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Helix direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Helixor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hexed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kronk S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lock and Load S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Needles and Pins S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orogeny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orogeny Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ouija S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Price Is Right, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Problem Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Simian S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stay on the Porch S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
True Lies S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tulsa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Gordon Douglass, Mindy Shulak
Page Views: 4,183 total, 20/month
Shared By: richard magill on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

48 Opinions

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details


If I were to list off a handful of the top middle 5.12 sport routes I've ever done, the list would probably start out something like this:- Rifle's "Pretty Hate Machine"- Cal Dome's "Ginsu"- VRG's "Mentor"- Cave Rock's "Fire in the Hole"- AF's "Helix"

Strong enough endorsement?

Anyway, if you find the Black Magic cave, you can't miss Helix.It starts on the left side of the cave and spirals up into a hole.Great fun!


6 or 7 bolts to anchors
Lee Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
Lee Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
I think it may be the hardest 12b Ive ever been on, grade seemed sandbagged. I also didn't think its even in the top 50 for best routes at AF. It was cool the shape it takes. If you don't hand jam at the crux the move was harder than 12d. In my humble opinion anyway.
I wished we had used our time to climb at billboard.

The approach beta is way off now too theres no log jam and we didn't see any pipe crossing upstream. Park about 100 feet up the road from where the road goes over the stream and cross the creek to the trail. Aug 25, 2017
Matthew Colemere
Alpine, Utah
Matthew Colemere   Alpine, Utah
Finally sent this thing after a good amount of tries. Such a unique route with some awesome movement, especially through the crux. Thanks to Matt Reeves for the fixed Djinn draws, they are great and inspire a lot more confidence than the older draws.
My favorite route up the canyon, and I think every AF climber should give this thing a try at least once because it's one of a kind! Super classic. May 30, 2017
Tristan Mayfield
Tristan Mayfield   SLC, UT
Awesome route! If you're worried about the drag, skip the 8th and 10th draws to clip the chains. They're really close together anyway and a fall would just swing you out into space. May 2, 2016
Matt Reeves
Orem Ut
Matt Reeves   Orem Ut
I have got on this climb a few times and it is a little above my pay grade but I still think it is an ultra-classic. At my job at Mountaniworks I have met 3 different people who de-sheathed their rope on old fixed draws. Even though this climb is a project for another day for me I decided to try to make it better for the rest of the guys. Today I replaced every fixed draw on the Helix Route with Petzl DJINN STEEL AXESS draws. Steel should last a long time and the gate is aluminum so they still clip like champs. Enjoy, all those that climb harder grades than me. Sep 22, 2015
Leify Guy
Leify Guy  
I think the term "ultra classic" is a perfect description of this awesome route! Jul 29, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Spectacular. As good a sport route as any I've done, certainly the most unique. Hand jams are everywhere. in the flake, in the hole, in the lieback pockets at the end, then a double toe hook to clip the chains. Francis and Crick would be proud. Sep 14, 2013
Boulder, CO
Halley13   Boulder, CO
When else have you gotten to spiral your way through jugs in a steep cave? This route is just plain FUN! Classic or not, this route is worth the burn. Jun 8, 2013
Fixed gear was as old as me. We put up a few new draws. Great classic route. Apr 30, 2013
Great climb! Like Thomas said if you hand jam there's a rest before the move to the hole. Tape gloves help. I've done the climb with hand jamming and without, but when there's a beautiful hand jam in the middle of a roof... you just gotta use it! Sep 4, 2012
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
Amazing. Couple observations...the flake was a bit spooky. Wouldnt want to be yarding on if it comes down on the rope. Probably fine though. As for the route- 12b? We found this stout. Getting off the flake - even on the dog, even to make the next clip and hit the roof pocket- was pretty damn tough and a huge move. My partner who is shorter and stronger couldn't even make the move. Maybe something broke here or we just botched the sequence. Or we just need to get stronger. At any rate I think most 12b leaders will find this a tough tick. Pretty pumpy to boot.

All in all, the most unique and one of the best routes in the canyon- if not anywhere for sport. The rock looks like a choss fest, but isn't. Plenty clean. And yeah I could see how someone who can't jam would probably not be a happy camper Sep 3, 2012
Thomas Holmes
Thomas Holmes   Utah
There are two hand jams in the roof, if you place your feet correctly you can get a surprisingly good rest. This route is unique for sure, but not poor in quality. If your not well versed in different styles of climbing (not saying i am) I would imagine this route would give you trouble. I had to place double length draws on the first four bolts to avoid rope drag.

Slab, jugs, buckets, crimps, jams... and its steep.

Awesome climb.
Aug 15, 2012
Lander, WY
Flacker   Lander, WY
I disagree with all these comments, fun route (but not classic), no choss, dirt, or hand jams, but hand jugs and rope drag Aug 15, 2012
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
Not chossy or dirty in the least. Great route. Jul 20, 2010
Neal - I did not know you did not like hand jamming that much. The Helix is a TOTAL classic!

Gordon Douglass May 19, 2006
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
poo choss weird dirty
anti-classic Jan 28, 2006
Neal Carroll
Neal Carroll  
I STRONGLY disagree with the proposed quality of this route. It does not deserve to be included with the aforementioned group of my estimation. Truly an unpleasant undertaking. Oct 12, 2004