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Early Access
Routes in Horseshead
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Big D, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blondie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Breeder's Cup T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Charlie Horse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dé - Stud Pony T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eagle's Beak T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fall of the Republic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Feeling Loopy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Funky Gold Patina T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glue Factory T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Goverment Mule T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hippophobia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kentucky Derby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Neighsayer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Oh Wilbur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Playing Timmy Sticks T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pokey's Arete T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ponyboy Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Preakness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sea Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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TDS T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.43698, -105.31733 |
| FA: | C. Winn, T Etzkorn |
| Page Views: | 1,544 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | tim.etzkorn on Sep 16, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
P1: Start at the dirty corner around the right side of the crag before going up the hillside. Climb a casual forty feet up the corner before laying back on the visible prow which is the crux (5.6) of the first pitch. Belay from the ledge above.
P2: Traverse left from the ledge and begin climbing at the right leaning hand crack that continues 150 feet up. Pull a 5.9 crux twenty or so feet up, continue up through a casual crack with jugs and chicken beaks into a moderate off-width. Finish on a ledge below an extremely flakey off-width to the top and walk off, or traverse left along a finger crack to bolts (5.10).
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