Type: Sport
FA: Equipped by Steve Edwards, FA by Bob Banks
Page Views: 982 total · 10/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Nov 6, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Follows a somewhat natural line up a series of holes and cobbles. For some reason, this route doesn't seem to get done as much as other routes, but the movement is engaging, consistent, and surprisingly technical. The moves are cruxy past the third bolt, after which you get a decent rest before plowing through a "face-climb" crux past the fourth bolt.

In a nutshell: powerful at the bottom, techie at the top.


Begins on dirt platform left of Old Pro Skill.


Fixed Draws.


andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
There is some discussion about whether this route is 12d or 13a. To my knowledge, the route has only seen two ascents, and it has been remarked that Hai Karate "felt harder" than other 12d's at the Tor, such as Shatterhand. That report does not, of course, necessarily bump it to 13a.

Try it, see what you think, and weigh in. Nov 10, 2010
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
It was originally equipped by Perlin, then upgraded and opened by me. This is a big distinction at the Tor since routes often takes weeks to build. As for the grade, hmmm. It would certainly be 13a most places I've climbed. The Tor isn't most places so 12d seems fair. Is it really harder than the others? Moves, sure, but it's less sustained. Aug 24, 2011
Thanks Steve and Phil, this is a great route.
Just recently Phil cleaned up this climb again, and its in good shape. Hopefully more people get on it and show it some love, Hai Karate doesn't deserve cobwebs.

As for the grade: Like Steve said, its less sustained than the others.
It might be a bit easier than the others too? Mar 31, 2014
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Although, as Ben Moon said, if you can't do the moves then there's nothing to endure. The crux is this is pretty damn hard. Or used to be.

But I only popped in here to comment that this route showed up as a highlighted classic here on Mountain Project. Jesus Christ, the one it took the place of was a classic Spanish limestone masterpiece. I mean, I'm sure Phil's further cleaning was magnificent but, um, still. Inverted sandbox or Oliana? All 4 star routes are not created equal. Now wondering if the MO of that site is to sandbag people. Nov 18, 2014