Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Brock Landers
Page Views: 2,249 total · 19/month
Shared By: Marathon on Mar 14, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

If your looking to add even more hard climbing to what was already a desperate crimpy pump fest, try New Shatterhand instead of the Old.

This direct start adds a plethora of rad holds to the fun.
More hard crimping down low, a desperate pinch, a crazy looking brain sloper and other cool embedded rocks, pockets and more great holds get you warmed up for the top.

This route has two distinct cruxes.

The mid way point crux will have you wishing you could lock off like John Brzenk in his heyday.

And of course the crux right at the end just waiting to spit you off.

When your eye level with the anchor and pumped out of your mind you'll be contemplating if you have the gumption to pull out a mouth full of slack to get the job done.

If you blow it trying to clip the anchor your going to catch some serious air.
But don't let that stop you, this new line makes an Old classic even better.

Location Suggest change

Next to Power Of Eating, on the right.
Look for the big sloper that looks like a brain 8ft up.

Protection Suggest change

fixed draws

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