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Routes in Owl Tor

Anchor Punch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Auto Magic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Better Than Life S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Burly Shuffle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chips Ahoy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gala Gala Happy S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hai Karate S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Happy to be Here S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hell of Being Crushed Alive, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Natural, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Shatterhand S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old Pro Skill, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Old Shatterhand S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Power Of Eating (a.k.a. "Power"), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rubble S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spearmint Rhino S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Strictly Ballroom S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Super Crack S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Terrible Angel S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b
When The Sea Doesn't Want You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Cougar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Brock Landers
Page Views: 1,019 total, 22/month
Shared By: Marathon on Mar 14, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

If your looking to add even more hard climbing to what was already a desperate crimpy pump fest, try New Shatterhand instead of the Old.

This direct start adds a plethora of rad holds to the fun.
More hard crimping down low, a desperate pinch, a crazy looking brain sloper and other cool embedded rocks, pockets and more great holds get you warmed up for the top.

This route has two distinct cruxes.

The mid way point crux will have you wishing you could lock off like John Brzenk in his heyday.

And of course the crux right at the end just waiting to spit you off.

When your eye level with the anchor and pumped out of your mind you'll be contemplating if you have the gumption to pull out a mouth full of slack to get the job done.

If you blow it trying to clip the anchor your going to catch some serious air.
But don't let that stop you, this new line makes an Old classic even better.

Location

Next to Power Of Eating, on the right.
Look for the big sloper that looks like a brain 8ft up.

Protection

fixed draws

Photos

Duke Lettieri
Santa Barbara, CA
Duke Lettieri   Santa Barbara, CA
Don't do this:

youtu.be/P5_iYGyp8Gw Jun 6, 2017
Those looking for a stepping stone to the full route will enjoy Power of Dieting (12b). Climb to the ledge just above low crux on New Shatterhand, traverse left to the huecos, and finish Power of Eating. Oct 23, 2016