Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Brock Landers
Page Views: 1,133 total · 20/month
Shared By: Marathon on Mar 14, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

If your looking to add even more hard climbing to what was already a desperate crimpy pump fest, try New Shatterhand instead of the Old.

This direct start adds a plethora of rad holds to the fun.
More hard crimping down low, a desperate pinch, a crazy looking brain sloper and other cool embedded rocks, pockets and more great holds get you warmed up for the top.

This route has two distinct cruxes.

The mid way point crux will have you wishing you could lock off like John Brzenk in his heyday.

And of course the crux right at the end just waiting to spit you off.

When your eye level with the anchor and pumped out of your mind you'll be contemplating if you have the gumption to pull out a mouth full of slack to get the job done.

If you blow it trying to clip the anchor your going to catch some serious air.
But don't let that stop you, this new line makes an Old classic even better.

Location

Next to Power Of Eating, on the right.
Look for the big sloper that looks like a brain 8ft up.

Protection

fixed draws

Photos

Those looking for a stepping stone to the full route will enjoy Power of Dieting (12b). Climb to the ledge just above low crux on New Shatterhand, traverse left to the huecos, and finish Power of Eating. Oct 23, 2016
Duke Lettieri
Santa Barbara, CA
Duke Lettieri   Santa Barbara, CA
Don't do this:

youtu.be/P5_iYGyp8Gw Jun 6, 2017