Elevation: 1,412 ft
GPS: 35.12, -120.104 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,659 total · 201/month
Shared By: steve edwards on Jun 17, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The sportsman's paradise of the central coast. Steep burly routes of a manufactured nature on a fairly blank but very overhanging wall. The most purely physical climbing on the West Coast, Owl Tor has about a dozen route from 5.12 to 5.15 (unconfirmed?). In recent years, the developers have bolted some "warmups" on the wall. They're probably still harder than your local crag's warmups. .

Weather? The area around Santa Maria is subject to some extremes—: from freezing to sweltering, the Tor has it all, but expect it to almost always be relatively climbable. In heavy rain years, however, seepage eventually makes its way down the face of the crag, sliming pockets and jugs and creating a generally swampy environment. Still, you can often climb in a full-on downpour and have the smug satisfaction that you are probably the only person on the Central Coast climbing outside on dry rock.

The Tor has some high-quality variations/linkups. Trust me, they're good. Here's a spreadsheet for clarity:

docs.google.com/spreadsheet…

Getting There

From Santa Barbara, take the 101 North to Santa Maria, then exit the 166 and drive East. After about thirty minutes or so, take a left off of hwy 166 at Rock Front Ranch. Drive through a gate (usually open, unless it has rained a bunch) and go for about a quarter of a mile till the road suddenly shoots steeply up a hill. Park on the left. A small trail on the left will deposit you at the base of the crag after about 3 minutes.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Owl Tor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 16
Happy to be Here
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 22
The Power Of Eating (a.k.a. "Pow…
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
Spearmint Rhino
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 19
Auto Magic
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 17
When The Sea Doesn't Want You
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
Anchor Punch
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 10
Chips Ahoy
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
The Old Pro Skill
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Hai Karate
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
The Hell of Being Crushed Alive
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
New Shatterhand
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Rubble
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
Better Than Life
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 3
Strictly Ballroom
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Happy to be Here
 16
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Power Of Eating (a.k.a.…
 22
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Spearmint Rhino
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Auto Magic
 19
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
When The Sea Doesn't Want You
 17
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Anchor Punch
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hell of the Upside Down Sin…
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Chips Ahoy
 10
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Old Pro Skill
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Hai Karate
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Hell of Being Crushed A…
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
New Shatterhand
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Rubble
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Better Than Life
 4
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Strictly Ballroom
 3
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Owl Tor »

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