Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: I think Perlin did it first...
Page Views: 1,880 total · 14/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Dec 30, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

17 Opinions

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Steep (per the Tor), pocketed (per the Tor), physical (per...) climbing to a burly crossover finish on strenuous finger pockets. Tons of fun. There's a trick kneebar halfway up, but try not to let any of the locals catch you using it (heh, heh). The climb starts on some long moves off of imbedded cobblestones, pulls a small roof, then travels past some bigs holds that are far apart. If you aren't pumped, charge the last sequence of finger pockets and fire for a hidden jug just past the chains.


Towards the right side of the Owl Tor, but not all the way to the "cave" area. In fact, I think it's the last route before you get to the cave.


4 or 5 bolts


steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Si, Perlin did the FA. Feb 24, 2010
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Andy Patterson redpointing Auto Magic (5.12a) at Owl Tor, Santa Maria, CA on November 15, 2008.

vimeo.com/2304309 Apr 12, 2010
Brian S
Truckee, CA
Brian S   Truckee, CA
additional video evidence:
vimeo.com/74599217 Sep 15, 2013
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA

Very fun movement! Here are some tips for anyone that may be at their limit when working this route. It is a 17 hand-move sequence for me except I found myself consistently falling at the redpoint crux; for me it is the second to last move, which is the right hand lunge to the two-finger pocket. Aaron Stireman suggested that I give myself a little more pulling power with the left hand in order to make this move by shaking that left hand out after clipping, rather than shooting for the crux move immediately after clipping. I also added the strategy of using the back three fingers of the left hand during this clip, then shaking out the left hand, then moving back into the 3-finger pocket with the front three fingers. This small strategy made all the difference in sticking the crux. Similarly, you can use different pairs of 2 fingers for the 2-finger pocket moves and you may want to save the middle-ring pair for the crux since you have a bit more reach with those two. Or you could opt for using the knee-bar rest...but then you'd be off belay. House rules. Feb 8, 2016