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Routes in Owl Tor

Anchor Punch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Auto Magic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Better Than Life S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Burly Shuffle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chips Ahoy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gala Gala Happy S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hai Karate S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Happy to be Here S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hell of Being Crushed Alive, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Natural, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Shatterhand S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old Pro Skill, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Old Shatterhand S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Power Of Eating (a.k.a. "Power"), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rubble S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spearmint Rhino S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Strictly Ballroom S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Super Crack S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Terrible Angel S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b
When The Sea Doesn't Want You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Cougar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: I think Perlin did it first...
Page Views: 1,734 total, 14/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Dec 30, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Steep (per the Tor), pocketed (per the Tor), physical (per...) climbing to a burly crossover finish on strenuous finger pockets. Tons of fun. There's a trick kneebar halfway up, but try not to let any of the locals catch you using it (heh, heh). The climb starts on some long moves off of imbedded cobblestones, pulls a small roof, then travels past some bigs holds that are far apart. If you aren't pumped, charge the last sequence of finger pockets and fire for a hidden jug just past the chains.

Location

Towards the right side of the Owl Tor, but not all the way to the "cave" area. In fact, I think it's the last route before you get to the cave.

Protection

4 or 5 bolts

Photos

Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.12a
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.12a
youtu.be/U5kJi-8TRTc

Very fun movement! Here are some tips for anyone that may be at their limit when working this route. It is a 17 hand-move sequence for me except I found myself consistently falling at the redpoint crux; for me it is the second to last move, which is the right hand lunge to the two-finger pocket. Aaron Stireman suggested that I give myself a little more pulling power with the left hand in order to make this move by shaking that left hand out after clipping, rather than shooting for the crux move immediately after clipping. I also added the strategy of using the back three fingers of the left hand during this clip, then shaking out the left hand, then moving back into the 3-finger pocket with the front three fingers. This small strategy made all the difference in sticking the crux. Similarly, you can use different pairs of 2 fingers for the 2-finger pocket moves and you may want to save the middle-ring pair for the crux since you have a bit more reach with those two. Or you could opt for using the knee-bar rest...but then you'd be off belay. House rules. Feb 8, 2016
Brian S
 
Brian S  
 
additional video evidence:
vimeo.com/74599217 Sep 15, 2013
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Andy Patterson redpointing Auto Magic (5.12a) at Owl Tor, Santa Maria, CA on November 15, 2008.

vimeo.com/2304309 Apr 12, 2010
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Si, Perlin did the FA. Feb 24, 2010