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Routes in Owl Tor

Anchor Punch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Auto Magic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Better Than Life S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Burly Shuffle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chips Ahoy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gala Gala Happy S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hai Karate S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Happy to be Here S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hell of Being Crushed Alive, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Natural, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Shatterhand S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old Pro Skill, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Old Shatterhand S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Power Of Eating (a.k.a. "Power"), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rubble S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spearmint Rhino S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Strictly Ballroom S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Super Crack S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Terrible Angel S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b
When The Sea Doesn't Want You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Cougar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: John Perlin
Page Views: 722 total, 8/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Oct 30, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

One of the shorter routes at the Owl Tor. Some of the locals don't like it. Other climbers love it for its short, bouldery crux. Either way, it has some memorable—and very powerful—sequences.

The crux comes about halfway up with a strenuous move off a crimp to a poor two-finger pocket, then a rather dynamic lunge to a jug. Then you just hang on till the chains.

Location

Just to the left of Auto Magic. The route begins right by a smallish tipped-over tree.

Protection

Fixed draws, with open shuts at the top.

Photos

Micah Elconin
  5.12b
Micah Elconin  
  5.12b
Downgraded to 12b by general consensus among the locals. Oct 23, 2016
Marathon  
 
Different strokes for sure, if it wasnt for the new start stone id give it a star and a half tops. This route begs to be climbed now, the stone lures you in. Jul 9, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
I actually love the crux of this route. My main beef with The Natural is that it isn't long enough, and is kind of a one-move-wonder. Different strokes, I guess. Jul 9, 2013
Marathon  
 
This route deserves 3 stars for a couple reasons, it has the best start stone in Santa Maria and one of the best moves. The crux of this route is a pile. Jul 8, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Think of this route as the "harder" version of Auto Magic. May 12, 2013