Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Perlin
Page Views: 2,394 total · 18/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Apr 5, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Another inimitable Perlin route. Some call it straightforward pocket-pulling, others call it the best route for hundreds of miles. Either way, it's no give-away and keeps you engaged for the whole pitch. Stout crimps lead to pocket after pocket after pocket... awesome!

Location

Follows a prominent black streak of rock at the left-hand side of the Tor. The starting holds are a shallow slot for the left hand, and a pinch for the right. Kick right foot way out right, fire left hand up to diagonal crimp, then start pulling.

Protection

Technically, the route has 6 fixed draws, but there is a bolt at the crux with no draw on it. You can bring an extra draw, but I recommend you climb through the crux and risk the near-perfect fall. You don't want to clip off those pockets anyways.

Photos

M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Phil Requist on Chips Ahoy (12d) at the Owl Tor, Santa Maria.

youtube.com/watch?v=XS5ZmbA… Apr 12, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.12d
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.12d
A fantastic Tor redpoint. Even if you don't "technically" climb the grade, give it a whirl anyway; this route begs be tried. Climb fast and efficient to the rest jugs, then do your best to keep it together till the clip (Dean, you know what I'm talking about). May 18, 2013
Serial Crusher
A house
 
Serial Crusher   A house
 
This is the best route I've ever flailed on. Dec 1, 2013
Brian S
Truckee, CA
Brian S   Truckee, CA
video evidence:
vimeo.com/109038265 Nov 2, 2014
The first left hand crimp broke. It definitely makes the first boulder problem a V grade harder, it still goes and actually think it climbs better now. Such a fun route! Mar 1, 2016
Duke Lettieri
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.12d
Duke Lettieri   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.12d
youtu.be/JBBCBSdZo-c Jul 7, 2017