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Routes in Owl Tor

Anchor Punch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Auto Magic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Better Than Life S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Burly Shuffle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chips Ahoy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gala Gala Happy S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hai Karate S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Happy to be Here S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hell of Being Crushed Alive, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Natural, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Shatterhand S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old Pro Skill, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Old Shatterhand S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Power Of Eating (a.k.a. "Power"), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rubble S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spearmint Rhino S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Strictly Ballroom S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Super Crack S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Terrible Angel S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b
When The Sea Doesn't Want You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Cougar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Perlin
Page Views: 2,309 total · 18/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Apr 5, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Another inimitable Perlin route. Some call it straightforward pocket-pulling, others call it the best route for hundreds of miles. Either way, it's no give-away and keeps you engaged for the whole pitch. Stout crimps lead to pocket after pocket after pocket... awesome!


Follows a prominent black streak of rock at the left-hand side of the Tor. The starting holds are a shallow slot for the left hand, and a pinch for the right. Kick right foot way out right, fire left hand up to diagonal crimp, then start pulling.


Technically, the route has 6 fixed draws, but there is a bolt at the crux with no draw on it. You can bring an extra draw, but I recommend you climb through the crux and risk the near-perfect fall. You don't want to clip off those pockets anyways.


M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Phil Requist on Chips Ahoy (12d) at the Owl Tor, Santa Maria.… Apr 12, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
A fantastic Tor redpoint. Even if you don't "technically" climb the grade, give it a whirl anyway; this route begs be tried. Climb fast and efficient to the rest jugs, then do your best to keep it together till the clip (Dean, you know what I'm talking about). May 18, 2013
Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
This is the best route I've ever flailed on. Dec 1, 2013
Brian S  
video evidence: Nov 2, 2014
The first left hand crimp broke. It definitely makes the first boulder problem a V grade harder, it still goes and actually think it climbs better now. Such a fun route! Mar 1, 2016
Duke Lettieri
Santa Barbara, CA
Duke Lettieri   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.12d Jul 7, 2017

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