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Hai Karate

5.12d, Sport,  Avg: 3 from 5 votes
FA: Equipped by Steve Edwards, FA by Bob Banks
California > Central Coast > Hwy 166/Silly Rock > Owl Tor

Description

Follows a somewhat natural line up a series of holes and cobbles. For some reason, this route doesn't seem to get done as much as other routes, but the movement is engaging, consistent, and surprisingly technical. The moves are cruxy past the third bolt, after which you get a decent rest before plowing through a "face-climb" crux past the fourth bolt.

In a nutshell: powerful at the bottom, techie at the top.

Location

Begins on dirt platform left of Old Pro Skill.

Protection

Fixed Draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Becca climbing Hai Karate in June....kind of sweaty up there (Photo by Lincoln)
[Hide Photo] Becca climbing Hai Karate in June....kind of sweaty up there (Photo by Lincoln)
Cobwebs on Hai Karate. Draw your own conclusions on its popularity.
[Hide Photo] Cobwebs on Hai Karate. Draw your own conclusions on its popularity.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] There is some discussion about whether this route is 12d or 13a. To my knowledge, the route has only seen two ascents, and it has been remarked that Hai Karate "felt harder" than other 12d's at the Tor, such as Shatterhand. That report does not, of course, necessarily bump it to 13a.

Try it, see what you think, and weigh in. Nov 10, 2010
steve edwards
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] It was originally equipped by Perlin, then upgraded and opened by me. This is a big distinction at the Tor since routes often takes weeks to build. As for the grade, hmmm. It would certainly be 13a most places I've climbed. The Tor isn't most places so 12d seems fair. Is it really harder than the others? Moves, sure, but it's less sustained. Aug 24, 2011
Marathon
 
[Hide Comment] Thanks Steve and Phil, this is a great route.
Just recently Phil cleaned up this climb again, and its in good shape. Hopefully more people get on it and show it some love, Hai Karate doesn't deserve cobwebs.

As for the grade: Like Steve said, its less sustained than the others.
It might be a bit easier than the others too? Mar 31, 2014
steve edwards
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] Although, as Ben Moon said, if you can't do the moves then there's nothing to endure. The crux is this is pretty damn hard. Or used to be.

But I only popped in here to comment that this route showed up as a highlighted classic here on Mountain Project. Jesus Christ, the one it took the place of was a classic Spanish limestone masterpiece. I mean, I'm sure Phil's further cleaning was magnificent but, um, still. Inverted sandbox or Oliana? All 4 star routes are not created equal. Now wondering if the MO of that site is to sandbag people. Nov 18, 2014