Type: Sport, 260 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers & Bob Hutchins
Page Views: 1,097 total · 11/month
Shared By: Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Nov 6, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

A fair two-pitch bolted line that is worth doing if you are in the area.

Pitch 1 (5.10-, 150'): Climb up bolts along the arête. When the bolts leave the arête step right, plug in an optional cam, and make a 10-move on to a dike. Continue along bolts passing more dikes and a tree. Belay at a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.10, 110'): Run it out from the anchor on easy ground to a series of bolts leading up 5.9-5.10 slab. You will arrive at a ledge with a diagonal crack protected by more bolts. Follow the crack up for three bolts, then step left on to harder slab (5.10) ending at a move around a blunt arête and some crumbly rock. Belay at a two bolt anchor. Contrived but with some decent slab moves.

Descent: Rappel the route.

A topo for this route can be downloaded from

toofasttopos.com/free/

Location

Far left side of the Southwest face of Muttonhead. Starts at the arête just right of Seeing is Believing.

Protection

Quickdraws, a few cams ranging from .4" to 2".

Photos

Tim Hadfield
Steamboat Springs, Co
  5.10b/c
Tim Hadfield   Steamboat Springs, Co
  5.10b/c
This was definitely solid 5.10 climbing, and a real hoot. We were calling it "Lesbian Encounter", because you climb through at least three sweet intruding dikes. We ended up climbing on to the top of the formation for a fairly simple hike back to the packs. Jan 12, 2012
Justin Headley   Tucson
You're not going to top out unless you bring gear. From the 2nd pitch anchors, go up and left to join up with the 5.6R pitch of Tour Buses Welcome. I never found that cam placement on the first pitch, but felt the bolt spacing was fine anyway. Apr 21, 2016
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
Neil Kauffman   Bishop, CA
Only climbed the first pitch; great featured rock! 16-18 bolts in 40 meters to rap hangers. 70m rope comes up short, but you could downclimb from around the 1st bolt if rapping. Jan 14, 2017