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Routes in The Muttonhead

Full Metal Hootgat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Have You Seen It? S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Your Huckleberry S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
In Water There Is Life S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Inevitable Awaits You, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery of the Desert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No More Credit From the Liquor Store S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Oops, I Sharted T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seeing is Believing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiny But Exciting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tour Buses Welcome S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers & Avi Steinburg
Page Views: 1,066 total, 12/month
Shared By: Geir on Nov 6, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This is another multipitch bolted line on the southwest face of Muttonhead. It starts on the right side of the face at a slab. There is an arch about 40' up to the left of the route.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 95'): Straightforward slab and face climbing to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.10+, 100'): The crux pitch. Move to a hole on the right, pull a tricky bulge (10+) and make technical moves past the next two-bolts (10+). The climbing quickly becomes easier and more runout.

Pitch 3 (5.10, 90'): This is the nicest pitch on the route. Climb difficult slab (5.10) up and left from the anchor. The climb sweeps back to the right to a steep section with a few jug moves over a bulge (5.9).

Descent: Rappel the route.

Location

The route starts on the right side of the face at a slab. There is an arch about 40' up to the left of the route. See the free topo at toofasttopos.com/free/

Protection

All bolts
lou
lou  
I climbed this wonderful outing last winter with Bret. I got lucky n onsighted the first two pitches. Since its not named... we coined it "snowball"..... it had snowed the day before n the hike in as well as the less vertical faces had snow clingin about. It was a bluebird day..... as we climbed snow chunks fell from above an smashed here n there. I stopped calling rock.. and started yellin snowballs.
IMHO.. the first pitch is 9... second is 10d.. an third is 10a....
rap with one sixty.. Dec 26, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10
Damn, Daryl, you sandbagger! ;) I definitely think p2 is harder than 10a, and I think p3 is probably around 10a on the slab?? Argh, can't remember the fine details on that last one!

I don't think p2 was easier than Absinthe's pitch 2, just different (both reachy!). Although at least this one does not have your gear in your handhold, haaa! Nov 26, 2010
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10a
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10a
Agreed Aerili.. unless something broke off on p2 since you and i did it, it's no more than 10a/b in my humble opinion. To use a contrast, it's milder than the start of p2 on Absinthe. That being said, good onsight, gf!! ;) I would go with p1:9, p2:10a/b, p3:9. Fun route. Nov 22, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10
I am 99% certain I climbed this route last winter. I thought it was a high quality route with really great sections on all pitches, but the grade is no more than 10b/c imo. (I err more toward the 10b end, although 10c is possible.)

5.9 rating for p1 I agree with.

10b/c for p2.

10a/b for p3.

I led p2 and onsighted it; I have never onsighted 11- sport. Also, for me, finding my way to get over the bulge above the giant hole was the crux (somewhat reach dependent, so I had to do it in a completely different way than my male partners). The move above it to the next bolt was also cruxy, but easier for me than the bulge move off the belay.

I did not lead p3, but I thought the slab was definitely far easier than, say, the 10c slab on a route like Warpaint.

I have many pics of this route; eventually I will post some. And I look forward to climbing it again one day! Nov 15, 2010