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Routes in The Muttonhead

Full Metal Hootgat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Have You Seen It? S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Your Huckleberry S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
In Water There Is Life S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Inevitable Awaits You, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery of the Desert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No More Credit From the Liquor Store S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Oops, I Sharted T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seeing is Believing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiny But Exciting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tour Buses Welcome S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 320 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Ayers, et al.
Page Views: 2,685 total, 27/month
Shared By: Geir on Oct 4, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun bolted line to the right of Mystery of the Desert. The climbing is mostly slab and a few tricky stemming face moves.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 70')- Easy slab climbing straight up the bolts to the two bolt anchor. The crux is just after the first bolt.

Pitch 2 (5.10a, 80')- Follow the bolt line up and right from the anchor. The crux involves interesting face and stem moves to negotiate an angled bulge. Staying low when traversing to this bulge helps, as well as utilizing small holds to the right of the bulge. Continue up and left to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.10a/b, 90') - climb up and right following more bolts. Enter a short oval dish-shaped feature and figure out the clever stemming moves. Exit this feature and stay right of the bolt line as you climb to another two bolt anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.6R, 85') - follow the jagged arete to up and slightly left to a tree at the summit. You will find a two bolt anchor directly underneath it. The climbing is easy but protection is a bit scarce in the beginning of the pitch.

Descend by rapping the route.

A topo for this route can be downloaded from

toofasttopos.com/free/

Location

Start on bolts approx 5' right of Mystery of the Desert.

Protection

All bolts except for the final pitch. A small rack of cams and a single set of stoppers is easily sufficient to protect the final pitch.
I guess the best way to grade the climb is to say it covers the span of 5.10 climbing with the pitches being hard, harder, hardest and rap at any point it gets too hard. It is also only a 3 pitch route. No need to carry gear for what is listed here as pitch 4. That is actually part of Full Metal Hoot Goat. Nov 21, 2017
Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10
While I would tend to agree with the above comments that 5.10a is a sandbag for pitch 2, Julian's suggestion of 5.11 is laughable.

That being said, the route offers a lot of variety and is very well protected with the exception for the final 5.6 R pitch, which is mostly juggy 5.4 along a low angle arete with a short 5.6 crux that takes great gear. Just be careful of loose rock here.

Pitch 2 is full value for the grade and remains fairly sustained even after the bulge. 5.10b/c is probably a more accurate grade relative to areas such as Joshua Tree. I used the holds out right and then moved back left, which made it feel more reasonable. My second pulled it direct and didn't seem to have much problems either. However you decide to proceed, the clipping stances are good and a fall here would be safe.

Pitch 3 is a well bolted technical slab with positive crimps up to the dish, where a series of sequence dependent stemming will help you move up and right out of the dish (5.10b/c).

Recommend passing the rap anchors at the top of pitch 4 and just walking off. Don't pass up a summit opportunity. Great route overall, highly recommend to the 5.10 climber. Oct 29, 2017
jbak  
"The modern convention"...hahaha Dec 16, 2016
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
 
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
 
Dec 15, 2016
The first pitch goes at 5.9 in modern rating convention. There is a move or two at the bottom that is in the 5.10 range though. The second pitch is a massive sandbag at 5.10a even as an old school route in my opinion. Everything after the first 10-15 feet of pitch two is 5.10+ or harder in modern rating. I'm quite sure I did it right, stayed low below the bulge as I moved far right going over it. Pulling up over/around the bulge is the hardest 5.10a move I have ever come across! Great right hand to the far right, very high left foot to the arete (ok at best) and then lockoff your right arm and reach super high with your left to a small sharp crimp (must be at least 6 foot to reach), then grab absolute tiny slab holds as you shift your weight left onto your foot for awful hand holds for the grade. I think the next clip was on some of the sketchiest slab crimps I've ever made. The position was so delicate I decided to grab my draw to clip the rope. I didn't feel like falling down 5 feet of slap and another 5 feet over a small roof while my face slams into the lip of the bulge. Ugh. I vaguely remember the clipping stance being better a little higher but I didn't know that at the time. That said climbing up to the bulge has some fun *** moves but finding the folds and moves is abstract for sure. I would rate pulling over the bulge 5.11- to 5.11+ modern rating depending on your height. From there it is slab climbing on what I would call well textured rock, not so much 'holds' (5.10+). After my second watched me climb over the bulge he refused to even try the second pitch and the third pitch looked like more of the same but steeper so I wasn't disappointed to retreat.

Good luck.


Dec 15, 2016
matt j hartman
Leavenworth WA
matt j hartman   Leavenworth WA
I thought this was a good and well protected route. Second pitch felt hard for 10a and is awesome. P3 is mid road 5.10 and also awesome. Topped out via 5.6 pitch to another bolted anchor and then to the summit via a 5.8 mixed pitch that was good. Worth topping out. Feb 21, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
And ... updated. May 8, 2013
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
This route is called "Tour Buses Welcome" and the FA is Scott Ayers. May 8, 2013
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10
Fun bolted multi-pitch sport for the first three pitches. Third pitch crux seemed tricky, but it could have been the two jackets I was wearing - brr! Jan 28, 2013
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10b
Crux on the third pitch is tricky tricky..pretty solid 10 at least and could be made much harder if you do it wrong like I did lol

Probably hasn't seen too much traffic so that little crunching noise you hear sometimes as you're smearing down on the footholds adds to the fun.. Dec 19, 2010
Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
Is this the route that has the corner on the 3rd pitch? I can't figure out which one that is, from these route descriptions. I think the route was called 'Tour busses welcome"? Nov 16, 2010
Stu Ritchie
Denver
Stu Ritchie   Denver
A very worthwhile route! 2nd pitch is certainly no easier than 10a. The 3rd is significantly harder and can be linked with the 4th for an excellent 3 pitch outing. Descent is straight down the route with a single 60 meter rope. Feb 18, 2010
Did the 1st two pitches after climbing mystery of the desert. Thought the first was a little easier than 5.9 and found the second to be a bit of a sandbag at 10a. The second pitch, though fairly short, is pretty stellar. Oct 11, 2009