Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Elephant's Perch

Astro Elephant T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boomers Story T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Chasing the Dragon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Direct Beckey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divine Guidance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fine Line, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mojo T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mountaineer's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Myopia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Original Beckey T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sideline T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Splittgerber-March Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunrise Book T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thorn Bush, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trunkline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wafer of Woe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wendy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 900 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Reid Dowdle
Page Views: 2,366 total, 27/month
Shared By: drewford on Aug 29, 2010
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route has some amazing pitches. Unfortunately, the first (crux) pitch is low angle and collects dirt and munge. But don't let this put you off. The second pitch, the Wafer of Woe, is one of the best 5.10 pitches at the Perch. Think Wheat Thin to the Stovelegs and you get the idea. Brilliant and three stars on its own! A suggested approach would be to climb easy ground left of the first pitch of Mountaineer's, trending left to a small pine tree. From here you can either clean and lead/TR the first pitch, or just climb pitch 2 and 3 as an alternate start to the Mountaineer's.

Location

Starts approx. 100' left of Mountaineer's Route.

Protection

Standard double rack with extra small wires. Some welcome bolts protect the Wafer of Woe.

Photos

P-3 involves a flared crack, which has a very sketchy thin flake in the back that's ready to come out. (I jumped off when the flake started to peel off and ripped two c3's) I'd advise avoiding this pitch until it gets cleaned out or a bolt is added to allow climbing without using the loose flake, which would likely direct-hit the belayer. Jun 27, 2016
Brad Brooks  
 
The first slab pitch will keep your attention until the end. Gear is thin and not great at the start, but holds and pro continue to appear when you need it. Not for the faint of heart. Definitely 5.11+ slabaneering. Worth doing just the first couple of pitches alone. Jan 26, 2015
The pendulum goes free at 5.12-. The bolts are a little too far left to be nice. Recommend placing 1 bolt, 1 m right, for free climbing. Jul 12, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Did the wafer of woe pitch as recommended for an alternate start to mtn route. Stellar, classic pitch. Bit of exaggeration to compare it to wheat thin, but still excellent. A huge pocket jug marks the start next to the first bolt down from the lone tree. Get on this one as it is wicked fun. Jul 25, 2012