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Routes in The Elephant's Perch

Astro Elephant T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boomers Story T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Chasing the Dragon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Direct Beckey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divine Guidance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fine Line, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mojo T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mountaineer's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Myopia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Original Beckey T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sideline T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Splittgerber-March Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunrise Book T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thorn Bush, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trunkline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wafer of Woe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wendy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Reid Dowdle, Neil Baxtron, Mark Rolofson, 1987
Page Views: 5,583 total, 44/month
Shared By: Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

An easier start to Astro Elephant, which avoids the (2) 5.10 pitches.

Location

Center of South face, starting 100' above the chockstone in the descent gully. (Lower 5th class to climb around chockstone).

Protection

standard rack
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
A route worth doing. Easy to combine pitches 3 and 4 together but I would not do so for 1 and 2. I tried, but the rope drag is no bueno even with minimal # of pieces (I only put in three on p1) and long slings. Also, the crux of the route is the top of pitch 2 and you will want a precise belay, no rope drag, and your belayer in view.

The finishing face on p2 looks unprotectable but gear can be had here and there. I could not protect the crux itself. You only have solution pockets in a bulge which Camalots don't fit in (and my orange Master Cam would not seat securely no matter what I did). Perhaps a red or brown tricam would work or a red Metolius.

We found a #4 useful on some parts of this route.

Pitch 1: 5.7
Pitch 2: 5.9
Pitches 3-4: 5.9 and 5.8...the topo is pretty accurate Jul 29, 2013
Here are some corrections to the First ascent info. I was not on the first ascent of "Sideline" with Reed Dowdle and Neil Backstrom. I was sitting by the lake relaxing after a hard climbing the day before. Dianne Barrow & I hiked in there with Reed, Neil and Mort two days earlier. The date was not 1987 but August 1992. The day before their ascent of "Sideline", Dianne and I climbed the "Direct Beckey" (5.11d) on the Elephant's Perch. It was a great day on a great route with a great partner and I got the on-sight no falls ascent. Sep 20, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9+
I have done both variations. This is a bit more run and has a loose block. Personally prefer the other start. Jul 2, 2011
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
This is a fun variation. Just be aware that it involves some mandatory long runouts. Aug 29, 2010
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.9
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.9
This route can also be used as an approach to Sunrise Corner but is very worthy on its own also. Beautiful rock and views!

The 5.9+ on the topo is if you continue on AstroElephant. Jul 23, 2010