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Routes in The Elephant's Perch

Astro Elephant T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boomers Story T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Chasing the Dragon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Direct Beckey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divine Guidance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fine Line, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mojo T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mountaineer's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Myopia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Original Beckey T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sideline T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Splittgerber-March Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunrise Book T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thorn Bush, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trunkline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wafer of Woe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wendy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA: Gordon Webster, Steve Roper and Tom Naylor, 1969 at 5.8 A3 FFA: Jeff Gruenberg, Jack Mileski, 1986
Page Views: 7,679 total, 61/month
Shared By: Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

Corner system above the descent gully.

Can be done as 5.10a A1 by aiding through the crux.

photo trip report by Brad Brandewie

Location

right side of South face, starts from partway up the descent gully. Lower class 5 to climb around the chockstone in the gully.

Protection

standard rack
Here's what I know. Original ascent by Gordon Webster, Steve Roper and Tom Naylor in 1969 at 5.8 A3. I rope soloed it (mostly on aid) around 79 or so to scope out the free potential. In 81 or 82 Jeff Niwa and myself went up to check it out on what was supposed to be a rest day. We did a variation partway up the first pitch and then continued on up. We ended up doing 3 or 4 aid moves on what is now the 5.12 part. We climbed the next 3 pitches with no problems except for the excitement on the final horizontal chimney pitch.
A year or so later Jeff Gruenberg and Jack Milesky free-climbed this one hard section and I believe free-climbed the original first pitch too..
Most climbers do this as a 5.10 A1 climb with the aid part being anywhere from 15 to 30 ft. depending on how hard you want to push it. The 5.12 part is steep and easily aided.
The first half of Astro makes a great approach to this to add more climbing and to avoid the gully. Nov 22, 2017
CThornton
Boise
 
CThornton   Boise
 
As of October 2015, many of the fixed nuts on the 2nd pitch were missing. It's been a while, but I recall there being only 1 at the very top and another at the bottom of the 5.12/aid section. What a classic route though! Oct 3, 2016
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Stellar climbing on clean rock. Excellent option if you want a shorter day at the Perch.

Agree with Aaron's suggestion on linking P2 & P3 - this worked well for us.

Gear - we took doubles up to #3 camalot, with triples in the blue-red alien sized cams. I'd use the same rack if climbing this again - it allowed us to link P2 & P3 comfortably.

P1 - Climbs nicer than it looks; delicate face moves with decent gear.
P2 - If you link P2 & P3, I'd suggest a couple large stoppers for the initial pro, on long slings (starts out as 5.8). 5.12 Crux protects well with small stoppers and small cams. You will then ideally have hand sized cams left for P3.
P3 - Great 5.10 crack climbing! If you like Indian Creek, you will enjoy this section.
P4 - More great 5.10 crack climbing! Relatively short pitch but steep and strenuous. Again, agree with Aaron - I wouldn't link P4 and P5, as you might not have the required gear left over, and can face some potential heinous rope drag. Besides, the chimney belay is comfy and protected from the wind.
P5 - So much fun!!! Red and green camalots protect the moves out of the chimney well. We back-cleaned some gear for fear of it walking back into the crack with the rope pushing on it.

Enjoy this beauty. If you are a solid 5.10 crack climber and don't mind a bit of aiding on the 5.12 section - I'd suggest getting on this! Sep 3, 2015
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
By far some of the most beautiful rock on this wall. What a great line. The 9+ topout pitch is outstanding!!!!! What a surprise finish.

Link the crux pitch with the perfect hands corner pitch above for a super 190 foot cruiser. You do the hard moves low down and then enjoy the 100 feet of perfect hands in a corner. No real rope drag on this plumb-line pitch.

Dont know that I would link the last two pitches, potential for rope drag through the chimney is daunting. Plus, the belay inside the bottom of the chimney is shady with a nice stance.

The 5.12 crux is doable though I fell at the last move before it backs off in difficulty. I think I could have stuck it if I had just tried a little harder. Oh well. Jun 21, 2013
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12-
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.12-
5.10 A1 for weaklings like me. Not to be missed though. The free sections (most of route) are great. Jul 2, 2011
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
 
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
 
There are routes that go free. And there are routes that are great free climbing. IMHO, the crux pitch falls into the first category. Tape is nice for the second pitch. Third pitch is not to be missed. Out there! Aug 29, 2010
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
My boyfriend and I both tried to free this one and neither of us got it. We hiked up canyon and started on the 5.9 pitch that puts you underneath the 11+ that goes into the 12-. The 11+ pitch was very serious with long runouts over marginal gear. I backed off it but my boyfriend got it on his second try. We both traded off on the 12- which has tons of fixed nuts so it's more like a sport climb with a really hard boulder problem at the top. Gorgeous line though. Aug 19, 2010
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
 
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
 
I thought the topo was right on. P3 is 9+ if you are used to that style of climbing (handcrack in the back of a flare). We linked the last two pitches together. The bombay chimney is so much fun! Aug 5, 2008
rpc
 
rpc  
 
Great route! though I thought that P3 (.9+ on topo) was way harder than pitch 4 (10- on topo). Aided the 12 section & so P3 was the crux for us. Brad's TR on his page provided the initial inspiration for this line (thanks!). Mar 21, 2008