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Routes in The Elephant's Perch

Astro Elephant T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boomers Story T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Chasing the Dragon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Direct Beckey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divine Guidance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fine Line, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mojo T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mountaineer's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Myopia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Original Beckey T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sideline T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Splittgerber-March Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunrise Book T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thorn Bush, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trunkline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wafer of Woe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wendy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,935 total, 119/month
Shared By: Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

Beautiful direct corner system up a steep clean wall. A one move technical crux, followed by a sustained stemming pitch and several other moderate 5.10 pitches.

Location

left side of the South face

Protection

standard rack
Chris Mutzel
Seattle, Washington
Chris Mutzel   Seattle, Washington
Just climbed this yesterday (Nov 11) during a warm spell across the state. To add more commentary on all the back and forth below:

(1) An amazing sustained route, at least for the 5.10 pitches. The corner climbing with sustained tips lay backing and stemming reminds me of the dihedral pitches on Freeway in Squamish.
(2) I found the crux hard for 11a. Think 11a at Index or Yosemite, not Squamish. There was one fixed nut the day we climbed.
(3) A double rack is fine. You don't need a grey Metolius. I led all the cruxes and protected them well - never even touched it. Two of purple Metolius or Red X4 size is great. A third .3 would be the best piece to supplement a standard double rack. The climb takes small and medium offset nuts nicely. (try DMM offsets if you haven't already - your life will be forever different). I placed a smaller nut ( #4 DMM peanut ) a few times.
(4) The climb is very well-protected, and I am not sure about the comment "takes great gear but not where you want it".
(5) Climbed pitch 3 -> 4.5 (built a belay at a reasonable stance midway up pitch 4), then 4.5 -> top of pitch 5. With a 60M rope, I was just able to reach the base of the notch below the slab where the 5.9 climbing starts. While this approach worked, and provided some great long 5.10 pitches, doesn't sound like it was much better than the other options described in the comments here.
(6) I was very surprised by the quality of rock, there is virtually nothing loose for such a route in an alpine setting. The section where you should be a particularly vigilant/careful is when traversing on pitch 2 from the finger crack (left) into the chimney (right) via flakes on the face.
(7) There was A LOT of booty on the route. This tells me that maybe people are getting in over their heads and either bailing, or hurrying through the last few pitches as it gets dark? ....Its an alpine route: be over-prepared, physically for the climbing, and technically/strategically for the length and other complexities of climbing in an alpine setting (descent, anchor building, route finding, etc). Nov 12, 2016
Brad Brooks  
 
I've done this route several times, and no disrespect to Mike, but it is every bit as good as Fine Line and the Becky IMO. It's still one of my favorite granite alpine climbs anywhere. The vast majority of people that climb this route love it. There are plenty of good belay stances on this thing if you run some of the pitches together, and it's easy to do it with a 70m rope. Bullet rock, splitter cracks and sustained 5.10/11a climbing. What's not to like?! Nov 29, 2015
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
I thought the comments talked this route up to be better than it was. The crux was fun, and the "10+" corner above was fun, but the rest of the route wasn't that great. The seriously uncomfortable belays really detract from the experience. As many others have said, this route is significantly more serious than The Fine Line or Direct Beckey. I would not get on this until you feel really confident on mid to upper 5.11. I brought small nuts, a single grey Metolius, and doubles up to three and had plenty of gear for anchors. I will go back to climb Beckey and FL over and over, but I'm not sure if I'll climb this one again. Jul 6, 2015
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
This climb is definitely excellent but I don't quite agree with all the "best climb ever" talk. Double rack was fine. Don't think we used the RPs we brought. Absolutely link pitch 4/5. I don't understand why that section is even called 2 pitches. Aug 29, 2014
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
I'll add some info, having just climbed this a week ago and these were the pitches I wouldn't of minded having some extra beta for...

p2 - Head up a hand crack corner and gain the headwall. Climb the headwall via finger sized cracks and some hollow flakes. Tread lightly here! There was a very obvious right traverse that I took here to gain the chimney on the right. The crack going straight up looked like it became a seam. After traversing right you gain the chimney, which quickly becomes smaller at a roof (#3/#4 camalots). Surmount this roof (a bit burly) and then trend left to a good ledge with a piton. I set the belay about 10' higher.

p4/p5 -Stem and layback up the corner until an obvious crux around a bulge. After the crux, you arrive at a pretty decent stance, but I kept going as it seemed to short. I ended up setting the belay after a small bulge about 50' higher at an overlap on the left wall. This was incredibly uncomfortable and a bit sketchy for starting the next pitch. I would advise either linking p4 and p5 (LOTS of small gear needed!) or just set your belay for p4 right after the crux. Jul 15, 2014
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
Pitch for pitch, I thought Myopia was more sustained than Fine Line and the Direct Beckey. My favorite of the three (except the belay ledges weren't nearly as cushy as the other two routes). Aug 16, 2013
Brian Fedigan
Boise, ID
Brian Fedigan   Boise, ID
This is a great route one of my favorites at the Perch. It is very sustained. Second pitch shows you belaying from a pin and bolts. A better belay is above the pin (about 10 feet) on a small ledge. Only one fixed nut remains at the crux. Also, look for alternative belay for pitch four than what is on the topo. The last pitch before you enter the alcove (pitch 8) does not have a rating. It looks easier than it is, probably pretty solid 5.9. The gear is excellent on this route and the climbing is solid 5.10. Aug 4, 2013
mtnsoceans
Ivins, Utah
mtnsoceans   Ivins, Utah
Tom Boley and I climbed this route some time back in the late '80s or so, and I remember it being very very sustained 10+ and brilliant climbing pretty much to the top. We were both sufficiently knackered, and extremely pleased with the quality of climbing and stone. I look forward to returning for more. The Perch and The Hulk are two of the best alpine granite walls that I have ever enjoyed. Cheers! Oct 26, 2012
James Yates
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
James Yates   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
This superb route just blew Serenity/Sons of Yesterday out of the water for my favorite climb ever. I honestly don't know if I will ever do a better climb (I hope there is a better line out there... maybe positive vibrations, maybe sunshine crack... we'll see). Myopia is the total package... It is isolated/remote, amazing setting, sustained difficulty, perfect rock, and completely crowd free. Four stars are not even enough to do this climb justice. If Myopia is the four star standard, I think the Fine Line only deserves three. That being said, the fine line is a four star climb just not as good as myopia.
This line is incredibly sustained and perfectly clean. After the first couple easy pitches the in-your-face hard 5.10 starts and does not end for many hundreds of feet. Pitch 3 is for sure the technical crux, and pitch 4 is the endurance/sustained crux. As already mentioned, be prepared to do some hard 10+ climbing above small gear on many occasions. Also, keep in mind that there are no fixed anchors on this climb, so be cautious not to use all of your small gear or you wont have enough to build your anchor.
This climb would be dangerous for a 5.10 leader, as many placements are made blindly from sustained liebacks. Be confident at the grade and go get'er done.....AMAZING! Aug 7, 2012
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b/c
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b/c
This line made me rethink the routes I give 4 stars on this site. Best alpine rock route to date- for us at least. Not sure it sees the traffic it deserves- found 2 "fixed" nuts above the crux pitch that were easily cleaned, and though the ferry driver said multiple parties were getting on it when we took the boat across the lake, nobody else did all weekend. So may not need the alpine start to be first to the cliff on this one.
Gear is there and it's safe for the competent leader, but I'd guess a party looking for a slightly harder Beckey or Fine Line will find this one a bit more full value. We did Fine Line the next day- excellent route but not heady at all- same for Beckey last year.
As for the crux pitch, felt mid .11, vs. .11+/12a move for first pitch of Fine Line. The .10 pitches felt accurate, except the 10- on the first real pitch felt soft and the 10- crack switch up higher was over marginal placements.
This route is probably not for the fledgling 5.10 leader - as others indicate placements can be thin at times and tough to place.
Rack: 2 sets offset brassies and nuts, 1 grey metolius, 2 purple metolius, 3 each blue and yellow metolius, 1 orange metolius, and doubles 0.5-#3 camalot was optimal for us. We debated bringing the second #3 and were glad we did. Get after it! Aug 7, 2012
Amir erez
Boulder, CO
 
Amir erez   Boulder, CO
 
This is a more serious route than Fine Line, but it is safe. Good pro, but not anywhere you want it. Be prepared to climb above small, but good gear. Incredible from beginning to end. Aug 1, 2012
Bob Graham  
 
This is an outstanding route with some nice technical climbing and good pro. There is a lot of stemming and liebacking after the crux with some wild 5.9 pitches up high. Sep 10, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
 
The single best open book fingers / stemming route I have ever done in the world. Pitches of solid, clean, 5.10 tips. Wish it went 10 more pitches. Loved it. Jul 2, 2011
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
  5.11b/c
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
  5.11b/c
Sustained, beautiful, engaging. Do it now. Aug 29, 2010
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
I found the gear to be very thought provoking on numerous occasions. I fell at the top of the 10d pitch after the crux on a grey TCU that somehow managed to hold my fall by two lobes that had opened up to make an apparently pretty solid nut placement. Spooky. The crux has fixed nuts though which makes it really doable, found this to be true on many of the harder grades here. Beautiful. Aug 19, 2010
Stu Ritchie
Denver
Stu Ritchie   Denver
Myopia is an awesome and very sustained Perch classic! Be prepared to "take off the gloves" so to speak! Aug 2, 2010
.. Brilliant, with lots of sustained 5.10+ climbing. Admin: Please change the bogus "one move" beta on the crux pitch description. Most folks will find things a bit more challenging than that implies. Apr 9, 2010
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
I took the biggest whipper of my life on this thing last summer. I found all of the 5.10 pitches to be very sustained and difficult. Absolutely incredible route though, just be ready for a mouthful of very solid .10 climbing. It generally protected well, but there were some very thin stemming and laybacking sections where gear was hard to come by and/or place. I have heard repeatedly since I did it that it has a serious reputation, more so than the Fine Line.

I guess these are all just excuses for saying "I got my ass kicked". Hopefully I'll do it again someday, and I'll feel solid. In the meantime, it's burned into my head as one of my most memorable climbs ever. May 31, 2008