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Routes in The Elephant's Perch

Astro Elephant T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boomers Story T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Chasing the Dragon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Direct Beckey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divine Guidance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fine Line, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mojo T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mountaineer's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Myopia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Original Beckey T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sideline T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Splittgerber-March Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunrise Book T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thorn Bush, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trunkline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wafer of Woe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wendy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Fred Beckey, Steve Marts, Herb Swedlund, 1963
Page Views: 6,726 total, 53/month
Shared By: Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

The original line of the Beckey route, starting up what is now p1 of Fine Line, and then going up a hard stemming pitch to join what is now the Direct Beckey. Most people do the Direct Beckey or Fine Line instead.

FFA(pitch one): Greg Lowe, Jeff Lowe, 1972
FFA(entire route): Reid Dowdle, Paul Potters, 1985 or 1986

Location

center of the SW face

Protection

standard rack; several fixed pins on the crux stemming pitch.
BenZH
Bend OR
 
BenZH   Bend OR
 
The 5th (last) piton in the 4th pitch corner is now gone. The 4th pin held after I ripped the 5th and the other ones below it looked pretty solid too. Jul 10, 2016
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Dave's beta above is spot on. All fixed gear was in good shape July '14. P1 & P3 are very secure and safe, just trust your feet! Pitch for pitch, I thought this climb was FAR superior to Myopia. But that's just like, my opinion, man. Jul 26, 2014
Having done these routes several times, Clint's route description may be a little confusing.

The "Original Beckey" is, of course, the line Fred Becky did on the first ascent. The "Direct" was done decades later after free attempts on the original line failed. In the early 90's bolts and pins were added to the first and third pitches, and the "Original Beckey" became free - and well-protected.

The "Direct" starts lower and left of the original and joins it after 3 pitches. From that point you have the option of joining the Original route (the stemming corner)or one more straight up via a blocky/loose .10 crack before joining the "Original".

The "Fine Line" follows the original Beckey Route for two pitches,but continues up the diagonal crack line.The Beckey steps left on p. 2 to the belay below the previously mentioned 3rd-pitch corner.

We did the route 7-22-12 and fixed pins seem to be in decent shape.

Folks hesitate to alter ratings but here is my 2 cents.
P-1 5.11d: sustained climbing w slabbly corner crux.
P-2 5.10c: Great stem and finger cracks.
P-3 5.11c/d: full-on stemming past fixed pins and small gear.
P-4 5.10d: climbing direct above the belay, not via the flake to the right.
P-5/6 and up: solid 5.10 crack climbing.
P-7 to 10: Easier..but not over!


Jun 28, 2012
Leif
  5.11+
Leif  
  5.11+
Climbed the P4 stem corner as a variation to the Direct Beckey July 20 2009. An excellent option. The first 4 pins or so look pretty good and I was able to supplement them with small nuts. The last pin looks a little suspect, I wouldn't have wanted to whip on it. Just hang on at the top. Jul 23, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
what are the pitch lengths in the topo? linking options? anyone done the P4 stem corner recently? how are the pins? thanks. Aug 10, 2008