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Routes in The Elephant's Perch

Astro Elephant T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boomers Story T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Chasing the Dragon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Direct Beckey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divine Guidance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fine Line, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mojo T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mountaineer's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Myopia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Original Beckey T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sideline T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Splittgerber-March Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunrise Book T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thorn Bush, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trunkline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wafer of Woe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wendy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jeff Splittgerber, Bill March, 1975
Page Views: 4,789 total, 38/month
Shared By: Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

One of the more moderate outings at the Perch, with 3 shorts sections of easy 5.10. The "5.9+" traverse starting p5 is not well protected for the follower unless some gear is left in the corner for a backrope belay.

For the best beta, see Brad Brandewie's photo trip report.

Location

On the West face, left of the Mountaineer's Route. Standard descent from the top, down the gully on the right side of the wall.

Protection

Extra wired nuts for p1.
Adding to Reid's comments: I knew and climbed with both Jeff Splittgerber and Bill March. Both were at Idaho State University in the late 70's. Jeff was avid, prolific, and proficient. Always a climber, Jeff worked on new routes around ISU ("buildering"),through-out Idaho, and elsewhere. Along with folks like Bill March, Tony Jones, Kirk Bachman, and Jerry Johnson, we'd climb routes and keep no record. It was back in the day when we left the first ascent experience "on the rock" instead of the guidebook. Thus, many of Jeff's and Bill' first ascents are not known. But some of us were lucky enough to follow their lead. This route is one of many. Oct 31, 2017
Thought I would I add this info before I forget.
First done as a 5.9 A2 climb in 1975. Bill March was a well known climber born in England and later moved to Calgary. He was the leader of the first successful Canadian Everest expedition in 1982. Later, in the 70's, he was a staff member of the Outdoor Program at ISU(Idaho State University in Pocatello). Never heard anything about Jeff Splitberger, another staff member?
Original route is described in the 1976 AAJ. It started several hundred ft. left of todays' start, scrambled up a ways then traversed right. A free and aid pitch took them into the route as is commonly done today. Top of 3rd pitch I believe. They then pendulumned over to gain the main left facing dihedral. starting the 5th pitch. From here they continued up (free and aid) to the top.
Around 1980 or 81 Dave Hough and myself added the direct start, figured out the traverse to eliminate the pendulum and climbed the whole route at about 5.10 b/c.
Back then, this route was quite dirty and wasn't highly regarded. Now it has cleaned up very well and feels worthwhile.
Great route to do when it's hot. With a normal a.m. start you won't be in the sun except for the last 2 pitches. Classic trad climb using every technique in the book. Moderate rating but a lot of parties are surprised how hammered they are by the time they get back to camp. Always thought of this route as the Steck/Salathes' little brother. If you're walking up Myopia/ Beckey/ Fine Line this won't offer any technical challenges but it is a good climb for the grade. Good prep if you're working your way up to the harder climbs. Apr 3, 2017
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
Just did this route two weeks ago. Lead every pitch. Having lead 36 other pitches during the previous 4 days, I was a bit knackered for this one. Each of the 5.10 pitches caused me some concern as I barely eeked out the on-sights. Beware of a scary traverse before reaching the base of the giant dihedral. The 5.9+ climbing up this dihedral is incredibly awesome. Though the vegetation on P2 & 3 detract from the overall quality of the route it is none-the-less well worth doing. Sep 13, 2011
Bob Graham  
 
First route on the Perch, very very good. I agree the climbing is very sustained and physical with lots of "wild" sections. Some awesome chimney climbing and wide crack systems. The 2 slabby sections are very different from the rest. Highly recommend this one! Sep 10, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10
Be sure and bring some small TCU si zed cams - to me the "crux" was occasional gear in slabby areas to keep it safe. Agreed that its not over until you hit the top. Jul 2, 2011
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
  5.10b
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
  5.10b
Fun route. Pitch 1 and 6 are fun fingers/tips and we felt both deserve the 5.10 grade. Not sure about all the fuss on the "5.9+" face traverse; felt more like 5.8, although it is hard to protect the second. Don't let your guard down on the upper pitches. This route's not done 'til you tag the top. As good as Astro Elephant? Not quite, but almost. Aug 29, 2010
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
This is a great sustained line with a surprising amount of strenuous climbing on the upper 1/2. Excellent crux first pitch layback/stem corner. Some dirt here and there, but pretty clean...it seems to be gaining some popularity. I enjoyed it as much as Astro Elephant and thought it a bit more full value of a day. Jun 12, 2009