Type: Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, Grade IV
GPS: 44.06857, -114.97445
FA: FFA: Reid Dowdle, Paul Potters, Marc Deforeaux, 1986
Page Views: 37,632 total · 168/month
Shared By: Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Very attractive direct line up the center of the wall, with several nice 5.10 pitches and a single hard move. If you like punchy 5.10 fingers cracks in corners, this route is for you!

P1 (5.11+): Chill corner climbing brings you to a stopper move at the roof. A good jug allows you to plan your attack, but the shallow finger cracks above leave many climbers scratching their heads and opting for a "free as can be" ascent. After surmounting the roof, find good pro before venturing to the left into easy terrain that brings you back up a right leading ramp.

P2 (5.10+): Start up a left facing corner that finishes with disconnected tips cracks. The aspect switches halfway up the pitch and becomes wider. Belay on tiny gear next to the orange flake.

P3 (5.10): Step right on face holds to yet another corner with thin fingers. Eventually you're treated to a 1.25" wide splitter that provides space for confidence inspiring pro and a tight handjam or ringlock. Belay on the large ledge. P4 of Fine Line can be accessed on the far right of this ledge.

P4 (5.10-): Set off from the left side of the ledge and up a double corner system. You'll soon be greeted by a mess of wedged chockstones provides easier climbing. Finish the pitch with some wider climbing that can be climbed without true OW technique. Belay at the base of thin flake on two bolts. 

P5 (5.10-): Two options to start - right provides an easier option with no pro following the large thin flake, straight up offers a splitter finger crack with opportunities to stem on the left wall. Both paths take you to a right facing corner that forces you to step left around the arete into a touch of exposure when it ends. Mellow climbing brings you to the top of a small pillar with a small bolt and low gear for an awkward belay.

P6 (5.10+ or 5.10-): Wedge into a tight chimney and thrutch your way to a shield below a huge block that creates a roof to either side. Rest on a huge jug as you decide which way to proceed: Left goes at 5.10+ and has a corner that switches aspects at the lip; right goes at 5.10- and has a variety of nice wide edges and a piton for pro. Belay at the base of a shallow right facing corner using micro gear.

P7 (5.10+): You can blast straight up for more of a challenge or step left onto blocky terrain if you want to have a slightly easier time accessing the tight stem box above. Either way, this pitch is rather sustained until it breaks through into low-angle tiered terrain. 

P8 (5.8): Many ledges make route finding challenging on this pitch, but the climbing is way more mellow. The Beckey Tree is visible and is guarded by multiple dihedrals which serve as your goal for the belay or link with P9 all the way to the Becky Tree if you're itching for a long pitch and some shade.

P9 (5.8 or 5.10): The left-most dihedral forms a ramp and provides the easiest access to the Beckey Tree but peter's out before getting all the way there. Some face climbing protected by two tightly spaced original bolts is required if going this way. Alternatively, lay back and squeeze your way up the right-most dihedral for a more direct and challenging route. Both options finish at the Beckey Tree.

P10 (5.8+): Cruise up the splitter crack/groove, angling right. Most of this is quite easy, but there is a move or two that might feel harder than you expect. Belay on a decent ledge before breaking into 4th/3rd class terrain.

P11 (4th class): Run the rope over mild slab that turns into huge blocks. Belay about 40' below the block that guards the final pitch.

P12 (5.9): Stem and jam up until you can step right onto the slab below the large block. Pro is available deep, but be mindful of drag you may create by sewing it up here. Make a few awkward moves right around the block then romp up a 5.5 corner to the summit.

Location Suggest change

Center of the SW face. Begin on a small ledge at the base of a shallow right facing corner. The roof on p1 is a good indicator you've found the right spot.

Protection Suggest change

Many small/medium nuts, 0.2-0.4 (x3), 0.5-1 (x2), 2-4 (x1), alpines (10)

Photos

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