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Routes in The Elephant's Perch

Astro Elephant T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boomers Story T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Chasing the Dragon T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0
Direct Beckey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divine Guidance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fine Line, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mojo T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Mountaineer's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Myopia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Original Beckey T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sideline T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Splittgerber-March Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunrise Book T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thorn Bush, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trunkline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wafer of Woe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wendy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,022 total, 8/month
Shared By: Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

A long independent route up the typical small corners with 2 hard pitches. The first pitch is often wet and the second pitch has a fragile flake.

Location

right of the Mountaineer's Route

Protection

standard rack with small wired nuts

Photos

The Wendy, which is rarely done, is an excellent route and deserves way more than 1 star. There are a few factors that have kept this climb off of most climbers radar.
A version of this climb was done in the late 70's by unknown climbers with some aid. Later, in 1982, 2 visiting Gunks climbers Jeff Gruenberg and Gene Smith climbed a route in this area, drew up a topo, called it the Wendy and described it as the FFA of Route X.at 5.11+. It only climbs 1 pitch of Route X.
The first pitch is a little funky with some awkward climbing, a short rotten section,and then a much harder part near the top that is often wet. Hard to tell from the ground if it is wet, the rock is stained black. Usually dry by August. If it is wet it is easy to aid and is a great excuse for not free-climbing one of the cruxes.
The 2nd pitch starts off with a little greenery for 10' or so then reverts back to classic Perch crack climbing for the rest of the route. However, the next issue is looming directly above which is probably the reason this climb is not more popular. A large flake is mysteriously attached to the wall. This bothers most people. I've been on this climb 6-7 times over the years and it always makes me nervous but it has never moved.
After the 4th pitch there are at least 4 different ways to continue. Most parties (the 3 or 4 that I know of) do a right traverse to gain a hidden right facing hand crack that then continues up with more options ahead.
If you can deal with the fear factor on pitch 2 this is a fun route with lots of climbing in the 5.10+ approaching 5.11 range. Like most Perch routes the difficulties ease up as you near the top 11 hours ago