Avg: 3.5 from 203 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Gordon Webster, TM Herbert, Dennis Hennek, 1967|
|Page Views:||48,409 total · 284/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Wilder on Jul 20, 2007|
|Admins:||Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle|
P1. 5.8. 180ft. Start on the easy gully that trends left from near the end of the trail that hugs the base of Elephant's perch. It turns to a chimney, which you follow for about 20'. Keep an eye out for a heavily chalked mantle move out left (crux of pitch). Leave the chimney, surmount the mantle (easier if you work around to its left) and follow a crack to a 3-4' pine tree with slings.
P2. 5.8. 180ft. Cruise up easy broken terrain to a set of bolts low on a large ledge. Head up the crack above and to the left of the ledge, but traverse left after 15' instead of continuing up the wider crack. Find a set of bolts about 30' below the large tiered roofs above.
Variation: Do pitches 1 & 2 in 3 pitches by belaying after the 5.5 ramp (bolts at large ledge) and again at the bolts on the ledge above the pine tree.
P3. 5.8 160ft. FUN TIMES! Cruise up to right side of the tiered roofs (don't face climb to left edge), place some pro, traverse left along the roof, backcleaning as you go. It's quite easy and there's lots of pro, so the backcleaning is easy. There are solid placements right on the left edge of the roof. Pull around and enjoy the spectacular exposure. Continue up a crack that gets easier and easier, eventually 4th or even 3rd class. Belay right at the very base tip of the huge blank diamond that looms above.
P4. 5.9. 170ft. Climb up the face diagonaling left (easier than it looks) to the arete and enjoy moderate climbing as you merge into a dihedral on the right with a ~2' roof feature. Surmount the roof (cruxy, with good gear) and create an anchor above in any of the decent ledges.
P5. 5.7. 100ft. Climb up good cracks near the edge of the huge diamond. You will eventually find a clean 20' finger crack that's well-worn. Belay near the base of this feature.
P6. 5.9 150ft. Climb up the finger crack. Options above left and right if you don't want to finger jam. Great pro. Above, follow wide cracks for ~50' which continually get easier. Gear belay when convenient.
P7. 5.easy. 100ft. Follow broken rock until you feel safe enough to unrope.
You are still a long way from the summit. You can attain it via 3-4 pitches of 5.easy roped climbing continuing in this direction, or you can follow the descent instructions and then walk down the south side.
When you finish the technical climb, you're a long way from the summit. If you don't care to summit, you need to first hike downhill to avoid the slabs that separate you from the saddle to the southeast. You'll end up going diagonally down to the scree, eventually dropping 200' vertical before you can climb up to the saddle. Cross it to the south and find the well-worn trail.