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Routes in Wonderland

Bad Sneakers T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Beat the Heat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chesire Cat S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fixing a hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
Magnum Opus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Science S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Citizen Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
So Alone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wendall's Dike T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
White Rabbit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
White Tuxedo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wrong Turn T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, Alpine, 40 ft
FA: Taylor Davis, belayer Bradley White, 2010
Page Views: 829 total, 9/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 14, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I am in the process of establishing extreme routes, although I probably won't be able to lead or follow the climbs freely. This is the first one that is nearest to completion.
Climb the inclining wall past three bolts for the crux. Each bolt passed has a unique approach to it. 20ft of barn door stemming, undercling moves and a long reach from a lay back to spread yourself out thin will get you through it. Here's a hint 'tip toe through the tulips'. Exhausting with high exposure. I didn't get to try it. This climb does not have rappel anchors yet. For now we used a higher up off of the cliff oak tree. We couldn't hear each other over the traffic sounds from Rt.25. That's why I didn't get to try it. In the meantime it would be convenient to have cell phone communication. After the crux the climb drops off to (5.5) rating finishing past two more bolts to a moss grassy and rock run out to the oak tree. Climb was a hung dog or Taylor did do the first free ascent of it, after peal offs and time to retry, Taylor clipped each bolt without tension. Hasn't had an official FFA ascent yet.

Location

The center of the east wall. Best approached from 'Beat the Heat', but there is a way to scramble up 4th class from the rarely used trail that goes downward to the triple corners trail from the Jimmy Cliff trail towards the Crow's Nest. I blocked the entrance to this trail with some logs because people are constantly taking it, believing they'll be going to the Crows Nest.

Protection

6 bolts. Two very far apart bolts are used for the belay. A eight foot sling is what I use. No rappel anchors yet.

Photos

Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
"Yes, climb it and whomever get's through it first without falling will have the FFA. Belayer needs to know what they are doing on this one, on how to pull the rope in before a fall because clipping the second crux bolt there is a serious amount of rope out. Just a little add onto the scare factor of climbing this, and a reminder, there is no rappel anchor yet."

Comment by bradley white on August 17th, 2010 8:12 am Jul 20, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I did get on it but i didnt send, its tough and has really delicate feet, i am looking forward to getting on it again though :) Sep 10, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
so matt, did you get on it? send it? Sep 10, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Thanks Bradley I will be trying it tomorrow and will let you know how it goes :) Aug 19, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Is it ok for people to try this clim or is red tagged for the FFA? Aug 17, 2010