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Routes in Wonderland

Bad Sneakers T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Beat the Heat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chesire Cat S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fixing a hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
Magnum Opus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Science S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Citizen Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
So Alone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wendall's Dike T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
White Rabbit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
White Tuxedo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wrong Turn T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 40 ft
FA: Taylor Davis, 2010
Page Views: 57 total, 1/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 14, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Taylor soloed up between 'Bad Sneakers' and 'So Alone'. The climb needs a bolt to protect the traverse into the inside grooved corner with blocks. A climber can also access the top of 'So Alone' from here.

Location

Climb up the left edge of the quartz extrusion and continue moving left on steep ramp to enter the groove I believe. I don't know exactly the details on how he got up to the top. Taylor just appeared at the top of the cliff and surprised me exiting this groove.

Protection

small trad. rack.

Photos

- No Photos -
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
Care at the blocks is not much. Connecting to so alone is a very different climb, cleaner, steeper finish and its easy to get onto so alone. Nov 30, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Delicate toaster size blocks are balanced on top of that corner to the right of So Alone. These should be taken care of (or care should be taken when near them). This is high above the toe of Triple Corners (and the trail up from Starship Enterprise). Apr 7, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.5
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.5
It stays in the easy dirty/vegetated corner just to the right of So Alone. Dec 21, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
After the traverse left, does this follow up the same way that So Alone does? or does it finish more to the right, up it's own distinct finish?

The white slab you mention is the top of Fixing a hole. I believe you can also walk to "climbers right" from the group of oak trees that you'd belay from. This will walk you over to the short (often wet) wall that folks visiting Crow's Nest often find by mistake. :) Dec 20, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.5
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.5
Here is a little more description. Start up the easy blocky corner to the right of So Alone .11b/c, when the corner ends traverse (unprotected) left towards So Alone .11b/c.After the traverse when you get to the corner climb up trying not to harm any vegetation and watching ou for a few toaster sized loose blocks. At the top of the corner top out and belay from trees. You can either Rappel here or walk another 30 feet up to an obvious white juggy slab for a fun 30 feet of 5.3 climbing with poor gear. This will deposit you right below Crows Nest.

This was my friend Tim's first trad lead today, he styled the run out, without a bolt in the traverse it deserves a R rating for sure. A bolt should be added here. If a bolt gets added it would be a good, slightly dirty, slightly loose, 5.5.

For gear we used a #2, a #1, a .5 cam, and another small cam about the size of a red C3, and a medium sized nut (there are other options for gear though). But the traverse has no protection and is the crux, if you blew the 15 foot traverse you would bounce off the slab below. Aug 20, 2010