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Routes in Wonderland

Bad Sneakers T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Beat the Heat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chesire Cat S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fixing a hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
Magnum Opus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Science S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Citizen Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
So Alone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wendall's Dike T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
White Rabbit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
White Tuxedo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wrong Turn T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, Alpine, 70 ft
FA: Chris Buckley
Page Views: 594 total · 6/month
Shared By: bradley white on Apr 5, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up wall next to and past the large stacked fins (dangerous) in corner. Continue up wall to anchors.

Location

go down the red ladder and traverse across and up to tree ledge.

Protection

Eye bolts and expansion bolts. Eleven all together. A long various technical sectioned climb to the rap anchor. I don't know exact length. If the anchor rings are aluminum make sure you rap. Don't lower off them.

Photos

- No Photos -
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.8+
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.8+
Great description Lee! The ladder was no longer there last summer but the approach isn't really sketchy. Just a little scramble. Just don't bring your full backpack.
If this nice 5.8 was not hidden around the corner, it would be a classic. The second half is just too cool of a climb even if it needs a brushing. Aug 10, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
this is the description i had posted under hinterlands... i mean nothing by posting it under this one other than the fact it might be helpful...

Description
Weird as hell to find but the climbing is pretty cool once you get there.... I did find it to follow a weird line but it brings you to some neat moves on cool rock...

After the involved approach climb a chimney corner to the first bolt.... Make delicate moves out right... Avoiding the loose flakes to the left of the 2nd and 3rd bolts... From there climb balancy moves on good holds up the face before the route jogs right up a steep juggy face and finishes with a really cool mantel move just before the anchors...

Maybe a good route to seek out when the crowds descend on your "quiet out of the way crag"...

Location
If you are hiking up in to the right side gully at Hinterlands walk to the right wall of the gully and look for a slightly beaten path to a scramble right... Climb down a ladder... Scramble up on to a ledge and anchor to a tree (or the glue in anchor the book mentions that i couldn't locate)

Protection
11 bolts to anchors.... the lower off rings are the thin aluminum type so they may need to be replaced with steel sometime soon... Apr 7, 2010