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Routes in Wonderland

Bad Sneakers T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Beat the Heat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chesire Cat S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fixing a hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
Magnum Opus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Science S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Citizen Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
So Alone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wendall's Dike T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
White Rabbit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
White Tuxedo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wrong Turn T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: Bradley White and Taylor Davis, 2010
Page Views: 75 total, 1/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 14, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Crux is getting on the climb. After that the climb goes up on big foot holds and small hand holds through the center of the wall (5.4-5) until you can move up and right onto some dirt steps for 15ft., with an occasional rock smear between the grasses (there is a loose toaster size rock that hasn't been removed yet here) until the belay bolts are reached. Look for the pin eyes along the way. One pin is in questionable rock. Climb is a little bit lichen covered but this doesn't detract from the climb. Eventually I would like to change the finish of the climb to being entirely on rock (moving left instead of right) but there appears to be a large loose rock preventing safe completion of it this way.

Location

At the base of that Triple Corner trail much before the 'Giant Man' area there is a side trail that goes uphill with a 4th class start to it. I like to approach this climb going down from the Jimmy Cliff trail where this side trail top out. This connection happens past the slabs and before the Jimmy trail goes steeply up uphill. Some branches are down at the top of this side trail.

Protection

Has two (#1.5 cam) placements for now (going to bolt these placements instead), Five soft blade pitons, four bolts. Two very far apart bolts are used for the belay. A eight foot sling is what I use. Not set up for rappelling yet. There is a walk walk off down to the right that is serious exposed 4th class.
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.5
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.5
Fun route, I thought I counted 5 bolts and only saw 2 pitons but I might have missed some, also place on bomber .5 in a pod during the long run out, and I didn't see any spots for the #1.5 mentioned in the description but I might have missed those too. Aug 20, 2010