Avg: 0 from 1 vote
|Type:||Aid, Alpine, 50 ft|
|FA:||Bradley White (A.K.A. Honey Badger) Peter Jackson 10/13|
|Page Views:||50 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||bradley white on Nov 12, 2013|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionBeginning is not bolted and has been top roped. its short distance of under cling and face lay backs and mostly 8++). For now Magnum Opus to belay at the trees is open. From belay move up and left over outside corner via large expanding flake or side walk up lower to the smooth lichen face. The crux face moves ahead are two clips made to far away to be user friendly. Scary foot surface for overextending my body length. Glad I got up to the clip crux by stemming up friction with an under cling feature in the scallop lichen wall. Better to clip than fall and C0 held sling to clip. Easier provocative moves to another clip reach it clip. Climb settles down on the large covered in scallop lichen outside edge with rest stance. Its easier 5.6 up lichen covered rock bulges to the selected rappel perch 15 feet down from the top walk off. Last 15 feet to top is crawling between trees on dirty rock.
Put it on my highest approval list and needs some friction cleaned. Power scrubbed it would be a two star route and possibly more because of its ambiance. One of my greatest bombs ever. We did our best to make it a nice bomb but bomb potential remains on first pitch near belay. Oh well the biggest bomb must remain alpine in nature. Challenging being not user friendly. My best climbing comes out on these worse surface types. Mind F)7/ work out doing the processing quick on how to stay up while making progress on this one almost slipped away on me. Invigorating.
Leave every rock in place, please, maintain environment below and at the guillotine rock because no erosion keeps all rocks in place. Cleaning out the rocks below the trees holding the half tonne guillotine slab rock it will become loosened. Its probable the guillotine rock will rock slide down Hinterland's Trail or while on this climb. Everything is okay presently. It's all got to change someday from freeze thaw action. The guillotine rock got hung up on some trees when it slid off the cliff a while back. The balancing act of rock and tree determinism to live keeps the rock safer. The tree should live many more years. You'll see what I mean by its fine and there is bolt above the guillotine rock now.
LocationWon't have access easily until easy access is made again. Figure it out. There is a eye bolt protected dangerous vegetation way to the base, off of the trail. A scary easy down climb from where the ladder used to be is doable. We rappelled into it but it is way to complicated to explain where and how and very dangerous to climber's below if you don't do it exactly the way we did. There is a lot of large loose rock on this upper wall. Our climb isn't on any of it at the top.
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