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Routes in Wonderland

Bad Sneakers T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Beat the Heat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chesire Cat S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fixing a hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Guillotine 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
Magnum Opus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Science S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Citizen Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
So Alone S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wendall's Dike T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
White Rabbit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
White Tuxedo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wrong Turn T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, Alpine, 40 ft
FA: Ryan Barber, Bradley White 2011
Page Views: 491 total, 6/month
Shared By: bradley white on Sep 9, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I led 'Beat the Heat' to the large pine higher up and left of the route, entered Wedell's Dike, continued up the dike until able to traverse left up between wall and Pine tree because of fractured blocks in the area to belay at large Oak tree below small headwall (130ft). From this belay spot Ryan led up Quartz ridge left of this Oak tree (Crux) is at the start of this lead. After getting on the ridge follow it up and traverse right to enter the same face as 'White Rabbit'. Finish up 'White Rabbit' and belay right at Oak tree. Exit up dirt gully. To add one more bolt to would make the climb (PG). The climbing is (5.4) after the first bolt but after the second bolt the bolts are to far apart and a fall here will have the leader deck at the Oak tree. The climb is a bit lichen covered at the beginning and higher up the climb is clean. Nice view and exposure. Tropical storm 'Irene' has dislodged three stacked 10lb plus rocks left of this dike 100ft up from Hinderland's trail. Unable to set them back to stability and there perched precariously! These blocks are left and not on the route.

Location

Starts at the large Oak tree midway up and left of 'Wendell's Dike'. Walk off after exiting the dirt gully and go right and up to join up with the Crow's Nest trail.

Protection

5 bolts and then 4 bolts on 'White Rabbit'.

Photos

Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
If you like Dystonia, you will probably like the Beat the Heat, Cheshire Cat, White Rabbit combo. Bradley has an eye for this style of route. May 6, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Better than Dystonia? I refuse to believe... May 6, 2012
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
Very good climb! best 5.6 at Rumney and a solid route May 5, 2012