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Routes in Ryan's Wall

12c for a day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breaking the Law S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Business Before Pleasure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Callisto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cherche La Femme S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cinnamon Groove S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cold Beer in the River S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Despicable Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Domestic Bliss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gainfully Unemployed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Get in The Van S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Khan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highway 99 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hull Yeah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hurt Locker, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kate Moss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Luna Park S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manfully Endowed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Meridian S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Misha's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Reimer Reason S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paradigm Drift S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Paradigm Shift S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Cyclops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Serendipity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shoe Phone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Van Halem S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: David Speyrer
Page Views: 631 total · 7/month
Shared By: David Speyrer on Aug 2, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Respect the small area that may still be signed off. Details

Description

Climb the long, prominent rust streak above the Business Before Pleasure anchors. Pumpy climbing up at times brittle, crystalline rock (which may have cleaned up since I last climbed this).

Lockjaw can be done as a second pitch above Business Before Pleasure or as a single 140 foot megapitch, which I hereby dub Business Before Lockjaw. Or maybe Tetanus Shot. I don't know, you guys decide.

For a more mellow approach, it's possible to climb Serendipity and adventure your way over to the start of Lockjaw.

Protection

Assume 20 bolts, it may be slightly less. Chain anchors.

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Eric Hirst
  5.12b
Eric Hirst  
  5.12b
Hugely fun route; the steepest 12b at Newhalem. Use a 70m or 80m rope, and warm up on Hull Yeah to screw your head on and get a good preview of the line. If you can't climb Hull Yeah without getting pumped, this may just beat you up hard.

I've only climbed this via Serendipity. On my first couple attempts, I experienced pretty bad rope drag near the top. The following beta took care of that for me on my redpoint run:

1. Use only 17cm draws on Serendipity, and keep the 1st bolt unclipped (stick clip the 2nd or back-clean).
2. Leave the top 2 bolts on Serendipity unclipped as/after you cut R near the top to reach the last Business Before Pleasure bolt below the BBP anchor.
3. Use a double length draw or sling on the last BBP bolt.
4. Skip or back clean the BBP anchor, and use another 17cm draw on the first Lockjaw bolt.
5. Time for some rock climbing! Jul 19, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
How many bolts? May 9, 2017
Drewsky  
9 on Business Before Pleasure and maybe another 8 or 9 on Lockjaw? I think for all the routes and variations in this section, 20 draws is a safe minimum, with maybe a couple extra until one is certain about the bolt count. May 11, 2017

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