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Routes in Ryan's Wall

12c for a day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breaking the Law S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Business Before Pleasure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Callisto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cherche La Femme S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cherche La Femme Extension S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cinnamon Groove S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cold Beer in the River S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Despicable Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Despicable You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Domestic Bliss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gainfully Unemployed S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Get in The Van S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Khan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highway 99 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hull Yeah S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hurt Locker, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kate Moss S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Luna Park S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manfully Endowed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Meridian S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Misha's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Reimer Reason S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
OSX S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Paradigm Drift S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Paradigm Shift S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Cyclops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Prometheus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Serendipity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shoe Phone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Steeple Chase S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Van Halem S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 1,106 total · 11/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jul 4, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Respect the small area that may still be signed off. Details

Description

This is an extension to an older route called Cherche La Femme, 10b, that climbs past two anchors in 50 feet. After the second anchor, climb up and left through an excellent granite boulder problem that provides the crux. Easier climbing to a rest then leads to a steeper section and another crux at the very end of the route.

Location

On the upper right, up the talus from the lower section of the wall. The first pitch is a slab leading to an obvious steep, short corner with lots of bolts. The climb is marked on the topo as 30m but as with other climbs here, a 70m rope may be required to lower completely.

Protection

Bolts. Perhaps 7-10 on the lower short pitch(es) and then maybe another 6 on the extension.

Photos

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This is a masterpiece with some nice variety. Feb 3, 2014
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
How many bolts? May 9, 2017
Drewsky
  5.13b
Drewsky  
  5.13b
I might be wrong as it's been a number of years, but I think there are at least 10 on the lower pitch(es) and perhaps an additional 6 on the full pitch, plus anchors. If the question mark was added to the name because of a spelling concern, the climb is a combination of the names Van Halen and New Halem. Is that a pun or is it some other figure of speech? Based on your rather ornate route names, I suspect you might know the answer to that, Jon ;). May 11, 2017
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Thanks Andrew.

No, no spelling concerns -- I added ? to mark the route as needing more info. Hopefully, it doesn't seem too much, but Mt. Project doesn't yet have a system for marking routes. Perhaps in the major upgrade that is coming later this year.

It's a nice route name. May 12, 2017
slim    
IIRC there was a video tape concert of van halen in new halem connecticut. i think sammy hagar yells out something about renaming the town van halem. maybe that is where the name comes from? May 12, 2017

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