Type: Sport, 10 ft
FA: Benjit Hull FFA Andrew Philbin
Page Views: 297 total · 7/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Aug 17, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Respect the small area that may still be signed off. Details

Description

What used to be the ending of the original line is now a short extension to Gainfully Unemployed that adds a powerful granite mantle troublem. The lower anchor was added to create a nice .12b that's quite distinct from the top section. Benjit told me I could/should name this extension: caveat emptor on that one, Benjit! He also told me I was wrong about it being .12c/d, so I guess it gets the mighty 7c+. It's not the hardest 7c+, but the funky nature of the boulder problem makes it kind of hard to grade. The hardest or at least the most technical moves on the route are probably still at the very bottom accessing the sloping ramp.

Location

Gainfully Unemployed starts with Cold Beer in the River but immediately heads right on a grim traverse up a sloping ramp. Manfully Endowed simply climbs to the second anchor past two more bolts.

Protection

Bolts and fixed anchors. Anchors just have carabiners currently and are pretty annoying to clip. 70m makes it down.

Photos

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Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
troublem?
It's a new one on me, but nice. Aug 18, 2015
Drewsky
  5.13a
Drewsky  
  5.13a
I'm not clear on the exact origins of the term but I know it dates back at least fifteen years or so, possibly to a boulder problem at Squamish called No Troublems. Perhaps that's the sole source after all. In any case my cohort have been using it as long, maybe because we all sampled Squamish bouldering early on in our climbing CVs. I remember that boulder problem having an inspiring mystique back in those days. Aug 18, 2015
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
That helps.
I like hearing about this mystical boulder problem and the bit of history.

youtube.com/watch?v=kG2aiWb…

Thanks for the psych- Aug 19, 2015