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Routes in Ryan's Wall

12c for a day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breaking the Law S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Business Before Pleasure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Callisto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cherche La Femme S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cherche La Femme Extension S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cinnamon Groove S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cold Beer in the River S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Despicable Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Domestic Bliss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gainfully Unemployed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Get in The Van S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Khan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highway 99 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hull Yeah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hurt Locker, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kate Moss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Luna Park S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manfully Endowed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Meridian S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Misha's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Reimer Reason S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paradigm Drift S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Paradigm Shift S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Cyclops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Prometheus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Serendipity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shoe Phone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Van Halem S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 10 ft
FA: Benjit Hull FFA Andrew Philbin
Page Views: 259 total · 7/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Aug 17, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Respect the small area that may still be signed off. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

What used to be the ending of the original line is now a short extension to Gainfully Unemployed that adds a powerful granite mantle troublem. The lower anchor was added to create a nice .12b that's quite distinct from the top section. Benjit told me I could/should name this extension: caveat emptor on that one, Benjit! He also told me I was wrong about it being .12c/d, so I guess it gets the mighty 7c+. It's not the hardest 7c+, but the funky nature of the boulder problem makes it kind of hard to grade. The hardest or at least the most technical moves on the route are probably still at the very bottom accessing the sloping ramp.

Location [Suggest Change]

Gainfully Unemployed starts with Cold Beer in the River but immediately heads right on a grim traverse up a sloping ramp. Manfully Endowed simply climbs to the second anchor past two more bolts.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts and fixed anchors. Anchors just have carabiners currently and are pretty annoying to clip. 70m makes it down.

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Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
troublem?
It's a new one on me, but nice. Aug 18, 2015
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
I'm not clear on the exact origins of the term but I know it dates back at least fifteen years or so, possibly to a boulder problem at Squamish called No Troublems. Perhaps that's the sole source after all. In any case my cohort have been using it as long, maybe because we all sampled Squamish bouldering early on in our climbing CVs. I remember that boulder problem having an inspiring mystique back in those days. Aug 18, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
That helps.
I like hearing about this mystical boulder problem and the bit of history.

youtube.com/watch?v=kG2aiWb…

Thanks for the psych- Aug 19, 2015

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