Type: Sport, 145 ft (44 m)
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 1,559 total · 11/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jul 4, 2010
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure March 1st to approximately July 15th each year; climbing outside approved CMAs strictly prohibited Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details

Description

The third of the 'Trifecta' of 40m routes. Start on .12c for a day, then head right and all the way up the fun and technical slabby to vertical hanging ramp. At the very top, a crux bulge with a boulder problem guards the anchor. Following the bolts directly seems possible but perhaps hasn't actually been done; I think originally some of us did this by climbing a couple feet to the left of the final two bolts, which was easier but still a challenge. By a couple of feet I mean that you can easily reach holds between the two options if you're just hanging there checking out moves. I recently tried 'directly' following the bolt line and found it to be pretty dang hard, enough so that I couldn't recall doing moves that difficult the first time I climbed this, but memory is of course fallible. It's also worth noting that this time around the left version was so dirty that I also couldn't imagine ever having climbed it that way, but I'm reasonably certain that's how it was done back in the day. It's hard to say which set of holds is the more intuitive. While fun and challenging, both variations of the boulder problem will be a huge and jarring slap in the face after the easier climbing on the long ramp, especially with 35m of rope weighing you down. In the end, it's really easy to A0 through the very top so hopefully it shouldn't deter folks from enjoying the other climbing.

It's also possible and, in my opinion, better to climb this via Cinnamon Groove. It's a straighter line and though it's pumpier, doesn't alter the grade at all because of the more restful, technical climbing on the lower angle ramp. Unfortunately rope drag and the weight of the rope are still an issue at the top.

Location

Starts on .12c for a Day, then trends right up the slab after the first anchor. Lowering fully to the ground requires an 80m (!) rope; luckily, lower anchors provide a chance to pull the rope through if one doesn't possess such a cord. Just be sure not to swing too far out from the wall if attempting to access said anchors!

Protection

Lots of bolts. I think if all of them were clipped, it would require 25+ quickdraws. Some of the bolts on both the lower and upper sections are somewhat superfluous. At the top crux, i recall not being able to clip one or both of the final two bolts. If you take the left path you may not be able to clip either. Finally, many draws can be backcleaned (especially desirable on the lower section). 6 or so shoulder length slings are a must for mediating rope drag, especially on the lower angle ramp in the middle of the climb. Fixed lowering anchors on top.

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