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Routes in Ryan's Wall

12c for a day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breaking the Law S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Business Before Pleasure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Callisto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cherche La Femme S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cinnamon Groove S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cold Beer in the River S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Despicable Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Domestic Bliss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gainfully Unemployed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Get in The Van S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Golden Khan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Highway 99 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hull Yeah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hurt Locker, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kate Moss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Luna Park S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manfully Endowed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Meridian S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Misha's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Reimer Reason S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paradigm Drift S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Paradigm Shift S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Cyclops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Serendipity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shoe Phone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Van Halem S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 145 ft
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
Page Views: 844 total, 9/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jul 4, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Respect the small area that may still be signed off. Details

Description

The third of the 'Trifecta' of long routes. Start on .12c for a day, then head right and all the way up the fun and technical slabby to vertical hanging ramp. At the very top, a crux bulge with a boulder problem guards the anchor. I think originally a couple of us climbed a couple feet to the left of the final two bolts; I recently tried following the bolt line and found it pretty hard. I'd say it might get .13a or b for the left variation and .13c for the 'straight up' version. Note that these two options are about 2-3 feet apart, so it's hard to say which is the more intuitive. In any case, the climbing is varied and interesting on this 40m journey. The boulder problem is a bit of a slap in the face, but it's really easy to A0 through it so it shouldn't deter folks from enjoying the other less difficult climbing. Awesome!

It's also possible and, in my opinion, better to climb this via Cinnamon Groove. It's a straighter line and though it's pumpier, doesn't alter the grade at all because of the more restful, technical climbing on the lower angle ramp.

Location

Starts on .12c for a Day, then trends right up the slab after the first anchor. Lowering fully to the ground requires an 80m (!) rope; luckily, lower anchors provide a chance to pull the rope through if one doesn't possess such a cord. Just be sure not to swing too far out from the wall if attempting to access said anchors!

Protection

Lots of bolts. I think if all of them were clipped, it would require 25+ quickdraws. Some of the bolts on both the lower and upper sections are somewhat superfluous. At the top crux, it's most expedient to just skip the final two bolts as they are super close together and way too hard to clip to be worth it. In fact, if you take the left path you'll likely not be able to clip them anyway. Finally, many draws can be backcleaned (especially desirable on the lower section). 6 or so shoulder length slings are a must for mediating rope drag, especially on the lower angle ramp in the middle of the climb. Fixed lowering anchors on top.

Photos

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If I remember correctly the left hand beta was only slightly left of the last couple bolts and for the most part, still followed the line of hardened steel. Climbing with a skinny cord helped--an 80 meter rope so you can lower back to the ground without shenanigans. Jul 28, 2017
The climbing is excellent, though dirty, until the final couple meters when it gets REALLY dirty, and vastly more difficult. After some chalking and brushing, I still couldn't really conceive of the final few moves on the arete finish, and I never though to climb out left.

I tried to link Cinnamon Groove into this finish, and despite lots of bolt skipping and long sling usage, I still felt like I was losing a game of tug-of-war with my belayer.

If you wanted to send this thing, it would probably work best to give it a thorough brushing up high, suss out the left hand finish, and then have your belayer come up to one of the no-hands anchors halfway up the wall (on '12c for a day' or 'Cinnamon'). May 30, 2017