Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 145 ft (44 m)|
|Page Views:||1,559 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Drewsky on Jul 4, 2010|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Learn more at accessfund.org/news-and-eve… and check back for updates.
The third of the 'Trifecta' of 40m routes. Start on .12c for a day, then head right and all the way up the fun and technical slabby to vertical hanging ramp. At the very top, a crux bulge with a boulder problem guards the anchor. Following the bolts directly seems possible but perhaps hasn't actually been done; I think originally some of us did this by climbing a couple feet to the left of the final two bolts, which was easier but still a challenge. By a couple of feet I mean that you can easily reach holds between the two options if you're just hanging there checking out moves. I recently tried 'directly' following the bolt line and found it to be pretty dang hard, enough so that I couldn't recall doing moves that difficult the first time I climbed this, but memory is of course fallible. It's also worth noting that this time around the left version was so dirty that I also couldn't imagine ever having climbed it that way, but I'm reasonably certain that's how it was done back in the day. It's hard to say which set of holds is the more intuitive. While fun and challenging, both variations of the boulder problem will be a huge and jarring slap in the face after the easier climbing on the long ramp, especially with 35m of rope weighing you down. In the end, it's really easy to A0 through the very top so hopefully it shouldn't deter folks from enjoying the other climbing.
It's also possible and, in my opinion, better to climb this via Cinnamon Groove. It's a straighter line and though it's pumpier, doesn't alter the grade at all because of the more restful, technical climbing on the lower angle ramp. Unfortunately rope drag and the weight of the rope are still an issue at the top.
Lots of bolts. I think if all of them were clipped, it would require 25+ quickdraws. Some of the bolts on both the lower and upper sections are somewhat superfluous. At the top crux, i recall not being able to clip one or both of the final two bolts. If you take the left path you may not be able to clip either. Finally, many draws can be backcleaned (especially desirable on the lower section). 6 or so shoulder length slings are a must for mediating rope drag, especially on the lower angle ramp in the middle of the climb. Fixed lowering anchors on top.