Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in Ryan's Wall
|12c for a day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Breaking the Law S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Business Before Pleasure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Callisto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Cherche La Femme S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Cinnamon Groove S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Cold Beer in the River S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Despicable Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Domestic Bliss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Gainfully Unemployed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Get in The Van S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Golden Khan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Highway 99 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Hull Yeah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Hurt Locker, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Kate Moss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Luna Park S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Manfully Endowed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Meridian S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Misha's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|No Reimer Reason S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Paradigm Drift S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Paradigm Shift S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Pocket Cyclops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Serendipity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Shoe Phone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Van Halem S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Type:||Sport, 145 ft|
|Page Views:||844 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Drewsky on Jul 4, 2010|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
Respect the small area that may still be signed off. Details
Presently, routes to the right of the route ";;Kate Moss";; are off limits due to fire damage in Summer 2015. So, this should not affect the routes presently listed here. But, respect the signs that identify this area. Thank you.
DescriptionThe third of the 'Trifecta' of long routes. Start on .12c for a day, then head right and all the way up the fun and technical slabby to vertical hanging ramp. At the very top, a crux bulge with a boulder problem guards the anchor. I think originally a couple of us climbed a couple feet to the left of the final two bolts; I recently tried following the bolt line and found it pretty hard. I'd say it might get .13a or b for the left variation and .13c for the 'straight up' version. Note that these two options are about 2-3 feet apart, so it's hard to say which is the more intuitive. In any case, the climbing is varied and interesting on this 40m journey. The boulder problem is a bit of a slap in the face, but it's really easy to A0 through it so it shouldn't deter folks from enjoying the other less difficult climbing. Awesome!
It's also possible and, in my opinion, better to climb this via Cinnamon Groove. It's a straighter line and though it's pumpier, doesn't alter the grade at all because of the more restful, technical climbing on the lower angle ramp.
LocationStarts on .12c for a Day, then trends right up the slab after the first anchor. Lowering fully to the ground requires an 80m (!) rope; luckily, lower anchors provide a chance to pull the rope through if one doesn't possess such a cord. Just be sure not to swing too far out from the wall if attempting to access said anchors!
ProtectionLots of bolts. I think if all of them were clipped, it would require 25+ quickdraws. Some of the bolts on both the lower and upper sections are somewhat superfluous. At the top crux, it's most expedient to just skip the final two bolts as they are super close together and way too hard to clip to be worth it. In fact, if you take the left path you'll likely not be able to clip them anyway. Finally, many draws can be backcleaned (especially desirable on the lower section). 6 or so shoulder length slings are a must for mediating rope drag, especially on the lower angle ramp in the middle of the climb. Fixed lowering anchors on top.
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