Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Benjit Hull, Doug Reimer
Page Views: 1,024 total · 19/month
Shared By: Eric Hirst on Aug 3, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Respect the small area that may still be signed off. Details

Description

From the starting holds of Cold Beer and Domestic Bliss, hand traverse R on an evil rail until you can kick a leg up and mantle. Then it gets harder.

12b to the first anchors. Andrew Philbin redpointed a short 12d(???) extension (actually, Benjit's original full project) in the spring of 2015.

Protection

About 12 bolts. Stick clipping the second one is the customary way to start.

Photos

Eric Hirst
  5.12b
Eric Hirst  
  5.12b
This is part of a harder project that Benjit bolted a while back. Doug recently added anchors at the top of the 5.12 climbing for an instant classic. The rating fluctuates with ego. Aug 4, 2014
Drewsky  
The extension adds a nice little not-granite-but-feels-like-it slab boulder problem but not a huge amount in the way of difficulty. The most technical moves seem to be on and above the rail down low and in reaching the first anchor, while the boulder problem is thrutchy and possibly favors shorter climbers. The lower .12b pitch is one of the best at Newhalem: intricate and technical with excellent rock. Feels like Index. May 11, 2015
Jeremy Park
Seattle, WA
  5.12b/c
Jeremy Park   Seattle, WA
  5.12b/c
12b if you walk across the hand traverse. 12c if you climb it. Jul 16, 2018