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Business Before Pleasure
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.2 from 15
votes
Routes in Ryan's Wall
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12c for a day S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Breaking the Law S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Business Before Pleasure S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Callisto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cherche La Femme S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cherche La Femme Extension S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cinnamon Groove S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cold Beer in the River S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Despicable Me S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Despicable You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Domestic Bliss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gainfully Unemployed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Get in The Van S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Golden Khan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Highway 99 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hull Yeah S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hurt Locker, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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I Take the Blame S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kate Moss S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lockjaw S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Luna Park S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Manfully Endowed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Meridian S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Misha's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Reimer Reason S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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OSX S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Paradigm Drift S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Paradigm Shift S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pocket Cyclops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Prometheus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Serendipity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shoe Phone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Steeple Chase S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Van Halem S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | David Speyrer |
| Page Views: | 1,159 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | David Speyrer on Aug 2, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure March 1st to approximately July 15th each year; climbing outside approved CMAs strictly prohibited
Details
Sport climbing outside the four established climbing areas (Diablo Crag, Newhalem East and West, and Town Crags) within North Cascades National Park Service Complex is prohibited. As outlined in the Ross Lake National Recreation Area General Management Plan, sport climbing is only allowed in designated climbing management areas and park staff will review any proposed new climbing management areas. Learn more at nps.gov/noca/learn/news/tem…
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Learn more at accessfund.org/news-and-eve… and check back for updates.
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Learn more at accessfund.org/news-and-eve… and check back for updates.
Description
Start immediately to the right of Serendipity and cope with a thin and nasty crux right off the ground before enjoying much more pleasant climbing to the anchors just above and right of the Serendipity chains.
Because the crux is so low and the landing so rocky, I recommend stick clipping the second bolt.
Because the crux is so low and the landing so rocky, I recommend stick clipping the second bolt.
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